Week 5
- Apr 9
- 18 min read
Following a weekend in Santiago and Valparaíso, Amber and I headed south for nature and hiking...what a week!!
Day 33/ March 30, 2026
We started this week wishing a very happy birthday to both of our mums! Happy Birthday Adrienne and Jussie!! 🥳🎂
In Santiago, Amber took on an EPIC adventure cycling up to Farellones. She gained a lot of vert and had some incredible photos to share as a result!
Meanwhile, I was back in school. The authors I contacted sent replies over the weekend and I had some lovely words of encouragement pop up when I opened my inbox! Thank you! :) I entered flow state and was able to make a seemingly logical skeleton for the review. I organized my papers accordingly and started to write (slowly but surely!) I always find starting a new project to be the hardest part, but it’s finally taking off.
After school, I had a catch up call with Tash…some people really can just make your day!! Hi Tash!! :)
I again tried to purchase Wifi. Although I have my RUT number now, they need me to show my physical card which won’t arrive until the end of April. Alas, you’ll find me mooching off the wifi on campus in the meantime.
The day ended with a quick trip to the climbing gym.
Day 34/ March 31, 2026
This was the final class with Dr. Charles before our midterm week 6 exam. We reviewed the whole gene expression process from start to finish. He then did a high level overview of all the topics we covered and opened the floor for questions.
Oh my lucky days!! As I was leaving the classroom, I noticed there were three students selling baked goods. Alfajores! These traditional chilean sweets feature manjar sandwiched between two soft cookies, with the additional fillings I chose, one with oreo and another with raspberry. Yum!!
Later in the lab, we needed to pick up a delivery of seeds from the mail room. We bumped into the U Autónoma mascot named Pumín en route!
Finally I left to collect Amber from the bus station in Talca. After dropping bags at home, we headed out to hike Piedra de Peñon.
On the way home, we stopped by the food patio near the chalito skate park. I started with a chicken empanada and tequeños (Chilean cheese sticks with thicker pastry) then we both had Venezuelan Patacones. These sandwiches made with plantain are so so good!! Safe to say we left feeling full and ready for bed.
Day 35/ April 1, 2026
Amber and I woke up relatively early today. We sipped on some yerba mate, meal prepped some chicken fajitas and worked on planning the rest of our trip. At around 9:00am I headed into the lab, where I prepped media for Nico, and counted the second CFU run for Eiber. I spent the rest of the day working in the office on my lit review.
My lab practical class started at 5pm. Today, instead of a wet lab activity, we spent class time summarizing the signaling activity of adrenaline on skeletal muscle within our groups. We started by answering questions about the signaling conditions (stress, exercise, danger etc.) which promote adrenaline release. Then we detailed the pathway where adrenaline binds to adrenergic receptors, activating adenylyl cyclase via trimeric G proteins. This triggers glycogenolysis and glycolysis in the muscles for immediate ATP, while promoting gluconeogenesis in the liver to sustain blood glucose levels.
Meanwhile, Amber spent the day at National Reserve, Altos de Lircay. A beautiful spot and one that is still on my list!
We met up for dinner at 7 with Nayar and her family. Nayar showed us around her latest Airbnb project then we grabbed completos from a nearby stand. We shared our plans for the coming week and they chimed in with recommendations and stories from their own positive experiences down south. It goes without saying, but if anyone is looking to come to Talca at any point, I would certainly recommend her Airbnb! :))
Day 36/ April 2, 2026
We woke up bright and early for hiking in Radal Siete Tazas National Park. The name references the Radal, Lomatia hirsuta trees throughout the area as well as 7 cups for the seven consecutive pools carved into the basaltic rock by the Claro river. The drive there was easy following along Route 5, then switching to foggy country roads past Molina. After showing our passes at the visitor center, we headed out on the El Bolson trail at 9:00am. This is a reminder to REGISTER IN ADVANCE!! This trail has a daily limit of 80 hikers. As is the case for most parks in Chile, plan ahead and book early.
Some friendly horses gave us a morning hello, a welcome change from the two dogs that bolted out onto the road to chase the car as we were arriving 😳. Despite a number of close calls, they seem to know not to go under the car? Hoping it stays this way!
After 5 miles or so, we settled onto a rock for a fajita lunch and some plums. Everything hit the spot! Though the trails were quiet in the morning, we saw significantly more people during our return. Most seemed to be headed to El Bolson to camp for easter weekend.
Once back at the car, we restocked on water and snacks before driving further down the reserve road to see the waterfalls. Then we were off!!
Amber started our five-hour drive south while I took over on aux. Olivia Dean, Jordan Davis, and Kenny Chesney took us right to a rest stop at El Rancho Restaurant near Longaví along Route 5. We split a plate of arroz ossobuco, with chilean salads, and I grabbed a cheese empanada as well.
It was my turn for a shift at the wheel, and eventually we arrived to our accommodation in Temuco around 8:00pm. After a quick hello to the house cat, we shopped at Lider where Amber curated a scrumptious dinner of chicken, zucchini, and pasta.
Following two days of phone connectivity issues, I finally took the time to sort out my cellular data. PSA: if you want a phone number in Chile you must register it along with your phone’s unique IMEI number within 30 days of activation. I used DEKRA for this. As this was my first time registering a phone, I assumed I had done something wrong though a simple software update did the trick!
We then boiled eggs in preparation for our hike the next day and headed to bed.
Day 37/ April 3, 2026
Early start today! We were in the car and on the road by 6:00am arriving at our destination, Volcan Calbuco, right at 10:30am. Amber managed to get the rental car down the bumpy gravel road and then I attempted to finesse it onto a parking ledge. We dressed for the hike, loaded our bags with snacks and water, applied sunscreen and hit the trails!
From the car park, it is a short 10 minute walk to the magical Cascada Rio Blanco. I have to say, this certainly draws you in!! The foliage behind is incredibly green, and the falls are so wild. After a quick pause to admire, we continued up to the CONAF Office.
Part of the National Llanquihue reserve, the CONAF (National Forest Corporation) team is responsible for maintaining the trails at Calbuco, controlling traffic, and ensuring the safety of visitors and wildlife. As a result, at check-in visitors are asked to provide their name, phone number, RUT/Passport number, emergency contact information, check-in time, desired route and eventually, check-out time. The staff at the office make an assessment based on your familiarity with the area, your preparedness (they visually assess footwear and gear), and the daily forecast. After a bit of back and forth, we were given the go-ahead to trek to the Refugio. We were off! Crossing rivers, hopping puddles (mostly), scaling rocks and eventually made it!
We enjoyed some olive bread and boiled eggs on the deck by the Refugio while watching a smart Chucao hop over to snack on the crumbs we dropped below. Conscious of time and excited to shower, we headed back to the car. By the end we were stinky and cold, though so psyched on all of the options in the area… everything is so beautiful!
Amber had done an excellent job researching accommodation for the trip so far, and Puerto Varas was no different! We drove over to Casa Apel Hostel, checked-in, showered, and walked to downtown Puerto Varas for dinner.
The view of Volcán Osorno and Volcán Calbuco over Lake Llanquihue is truly one of a kind! A combination of our sandal-wear for dinner and turning around for the view led to a few stumbles along the way.
Having worked up an appetite from our hike, we were quick to decide on Club Aleman for dinner. The German menu featured so many personal favorites: Leberkäse, Schnitzel, goulash, wursts… I ended up ordering a Bota Sucia beer and currywurst with spaetzel and rotkohl. Amber enjoyed a ceviche platter with a glass of red wine. Safe to say, happy ducks! We walked home and tucked in for the night.
Day 38/ April 4, 2026
Today was the last day before the time change! We took advantage of the late start and went out for a sunrise run just before 8am. Yet again, we were treated to a stunning view of the lake. We ran downtown along the beach and stopped for a coffee at Tutti (which quickly turned into a slice of apple pie when I saw the pastry shelf).
There were fishermen out on the rocks near the sculpture of Princess Licareyén, a beautiful spot with an even more meaningful history. The mapuche people celebrate her in a folk tale:
The Legend of Licarayén
A long time ago, the Huilliche people lived at the feet of Piri Pillán (now known as the Osorno Volcano).
They were led by a wise Cacique who ruled with kindness and justice, supported by his daughter, Licarayén. She was in love with the Toqui Quitralpique; their love was pure and brought them great happiness, and they were to be married in the spring.
Piri Pillán, however, was not happy with the Huilliche. He envied them for being created by Antü, the sun god who had trapped him inside the mountain. Driven by spite, he set out to ruin their happiness and began his quest for destruction. He made the earth quake under their feet—movements that could be felt for miles and threatened to destroy the Huilliche's labor. When this wasn't enough to break them, Piri Pillán started spitting lava, fire, and rocks, destroying the crops and everything else in his wake.
The Huilliche were desperate, and the Cacique was at a loss for what to do. As the days passed, Piri Pillán's fury only worsened. One day, a stranger appeared in town. He had come from far away and saw how the Huilliche were suffering, so he requested an audience with the Cacique. The old stranger explained that the only way to calm Piri Pillán was to sacrifice the most beautiful girl in the village.
"To bring calm to the village, you must rip out the heart of the most beautiful maiden among you. Then, you will place it on top of the Pichi Juan hill and cover it with a Canelo branch."
The Cacique gathered his people to find the chosen sacrifice. After an arduous discussion, he came to a terrible realization: his own daughter was the chosen one. Licarayén proved she was indeed the kindest and most beautiful maiden in the tribe by offering her life immediately, without argument, so her people could be safe. She had just one condition: Quitralpique was to take her heart from her chest, as he was its rightful owner.
Quitralpique prepared a bed of flowers for Licarayén, and with his own heart filled to the brim with grief, he removed the maiden's heart. He handed it to the Cacique so the ritual could be finished and then threw himself onto his spear. If Licarayén was gone to the afterlife, he would go with her.
Licarayén's father took her heart to the top of Pichi Juan and laid a Canelo branch over it. They all stood around waiting for something to happen. Just as they were losing hope, a giant bird descended from the heavens and ate the heart in one fell swoop. It picked up the Canelo branch and flew toward the volcano, dropping the branch into the mouth of Piri Pillán.
When the branch burned, snow suddenly began to fall into the crater. For days, the snow fell and melted, flowing down the sides of the mountain. It was a battle between the pure heart of Licarayén and the fiery, dark mouth of Piri Pillán. So much snow melted and ran down the slopes that three lakes were formed: Chapo, Todos los Santos, and Llanquihue. After the fierce battle was over, Licarayén had won. The snow she sent from the heavens quieted Piri Pillán and saved the Huilliche people forever.
Adapted from this retelling by Alex Giroux and Jacynthe Boudreau, Oct 25, 2017.
The peaceful morning took a quick turn when we encountered a fluffy pup on the run home. What started as a gentle pat hello quickly turned into a chase and frantic “no! down!” every time he hopped up to play. Somehow, he followed us all the way to the Santa Isabel grocery store 2 miles away. Fortunately, the security guard shooed him away and we were able to get our shopping done.
Back at the hostel we boiled eggs, cheffed up a quick breakfast and then left for a hike near Volcán Osorno. We started along the Paso Desolación (Path of Desolation), and quickly heated up from time under the sun on the exposed beach by Lago Todos Los Santos. It was quite a sandy trail and we tired quickly from slipping and sliding so much.
We sat down on a rock just above Mirador Lapicada for lunch. Boiled eggs, olive bread, and some nibbles from my sausage, onion, and squash fry up gave us a boost of energy for the rest of the afternoon.
The whole descent featured gorgeous views of the lake. At times we had to quickly jump out of the way of some enthusiastic mountain bikers, though their psych was infectious!! We also noticed several people foraging on the way down and throughout the drive home. It seems it is Murta berry, Ugni molinae, season here in the Puerto Montt area!! These berries are small about the size of a cranberry, with pink skin and white flesh. They are often described as being a ‘Chilean guava’. Murta berries can be enjoyed fresh in salads or cooked into jam.
We arrived home, showered, then again trotted to downtown Puerto Varas for dinner. Craving something local, we ended up in Chilean restaurant called La Cantina. Amber had shrimp with a Chilean salad and I had to go for another pastel de choclo. We chatted about family, travel plans all while admiring the artwork in the restaurant. As we were leaving, a band was starting to play upstairs. A great spot for so many activities!
On the way home, tempted for something sweet (I admit I always have a heavy influence here), we stopped for gelato. We both opted for a scoop of raspberry along with something with a touch of chocolate. We arrived home shortly after and went to bed in anticipation of another big day.
Day 39/ April 5, 2026
Happy Easter!! 🐰🌸🐣
Unsure of what may or may not be closed for the holiday, we headed to the nearby Saltos del río Petrohué. We had some exciting views during the drive with a Caracara bird sighting near the road and a potential güiña sighting just outside the visitor center. Based on the two photos below, I am unsure if the gray feline fella qualifies, but he was in the sign posted zone?! Perhaps it is instead the colocolo cat? Though further research has suggested instead maybe this is a gato de los pajonales? (see reference photos from left to right below of a güiña, then colocolo, and gato de los pajonales) I am open to any takes you may have.
We were in luck! The waterfalls were open and we had the place to ourselves! It was incredible to see the amount of thought and intention that went into developing the center. All paths were sturdy, clearly marked, and featured several elements to support accessibility for guests with potential visual, auditory, or mobility challenges. Various species were labeled and there a range of options for the visit. Hiking, a tour with a guide, climbing, lunching were all options to enjoy the area. After some time marveling the falls, we stopped for a coffee and went on our way!
We drove south to Valle Cochamó in hopes of doing the out and back hike to La Junta campsite, a 20km journey in total. Unfortunately, it seems day hikers must enter by 9:00am in order to complete the full distance. As the trails abut private property, this ordinance is especially strict. The ranger kindly offered alternatives so we opted for the 4km out and back to the Rio Piedra bridge. It was a pleasant romp and there were some gorgeous river rocks awaiting us at the end!
As our daily adventure cup wasn’t quite full, we opted to find alternative hikes in the area. I came across a posting on AllTrails for Laguna San Antonio and Termas de Ralun. What ensued was certainly an adventure!!
Amber expertly navigated the car down a long gravel road off Ruta V69 just north of Puente Petrohue. We arrived at a small parking lot and Carlos, a nearby resident, came over to explain the area. He offered words of caution for the animals nearby (though my spanish was not good enough to pick up on what exactly these animals were) and wished us luck!
We wandered down to the river where another resident, Rupert, took us across in his boat along with two of his 14 pugs (yes 14!). Rupert gave us his phone number and we agreed on a time to meet back by the river bank. Just like that, we were off!
We opted to head straight up the trails to Laguna San Antonio. After some slight bushwhacking and veering off track, we connected with the most obvious route and continued up to the top. It was a bit slippery, quite dark owing to the thick canopy above, and certainly felt wild!
We arrived at the top shortly after 3:00pm at which point we were both starving. The time change as well as the delayed lunch meant our selection of boiled eggs, leftover mac and cheese, and olive bread disappeared instantly. Although I rarely say no to sweets, we were tight on time so we opted to save our daily packet of Oreos for the car.
We headed down quickly, this time with complete confidence in the route. At the bottom we agreed there was enough time to warrant popping over to the popular thermal attraction so on we went!
Following a short 5 minute path along the river bank, we arrived and could see a number of others enjoying the warm water. We felt it for ourselves before returning to the designated collection point. Rupert’s son made the journey across and brought us safely back to the other bank. Quite the wonderful quest! And without doubt off the beaten path.
Back in Puerto Varas we inhaled pizzas from Mesa Tropera along with gelato this time from Cassis (Amber swears the pistachio was insane!). Amber showed me her cycling plans for the coming week and I sat there in awe of such an amazing pursuit. Gravel rides, long days, lots of elevation. She is in for a treat!
We finished the night planning our activities for tomorrow and then went to sleep.
Day 40/ April 6, 2026
We started our final day in Puerto Varas much like our first with a sunrise run (though this time no pesky pup encounters). Then we showered and packed our bags at the hostel.
We checked out and headed to Tutti for a coffee. To break up the drive north to Temuco, we opted for a stop in Valdivia. We did a squiggly hike up a road opposite the Don Agustin camping grounds then parked in the city in the Dreams Hotel and Casino garage.
Of course we had to start our city wander at the Valdivia Municipal Market also known as Feria Fluvial, featuring fish, produce, knit wear and famously sea lions!
This sea lion colony is special for a number of reasons. First, the symbiosis between fish mongers and the sea lions dates back decades. The animals are so accustomed to the free fish, they often hop up on shore to enjoy their lunch! They are incredibly docile and have adapted in a number of ways to support life near the market. For example the sea lions can now live primarily in a freshwater/brackish environment, and the bachelor colony exhibits novel passive social dynamics amongst males that is almost unheard of in the wild. Finally the Valdivia locals revere the massive sea dogs and often use them as a civic symbol as guards of the river and the city!
At the end of the market pier you may notice a large submarine:
“The O'Brien Submarine Museum, a vessel belonging to the Oberon class, was built in 1971 in Scotland at the request of the Chilean Navy and arrived in the city of Punta Arenas on August 10, 1976. After completing 25 years of service, it was decommissioned on December 31, 2001, and was subsequently acquired by the Municipality of Valdivia to be converted into a museum.
It is the second of the Oberon class in the world to remain afloat and is one of only three such submarines in South America serving as a tourist attraction. Visiting this site invites tourists to imagine firsthand the daily experiences faced by the crew, especially during long periods spent on the ocean floor.” - O'Brien Submarine Museum
We stopped for some sandwiches from Cafe El Molino, continued for a brief wander, then returned to the car and resumed our journey north to Temuco.
We arrived in the city right at 6:00pm and had an hour to kill before our Airbnb host returned so opted to walk downtown to the Plaza de Aníbel Pinto.
The fact that the square is named after President Aníbal Pinto rather than just "Plaza de Armas" is significant because it reflects Temuco's unique history as a relatively young city founded by the Chilean Republic in 1881, rather than a colonial-era Spanish outpost. The Monumento a la Araucanía in Temuco’s main square is a bronze work featuring five figures that represent the region's complex history: the Machi (spiritual leader), the Toqui (warrior), the Spanish Conquistador, the Chilean Soldier, and the European Immigrant. Inaugurated in 1990, it serves as a visual summary of the "mestizaje" or blending of cultures (indigenous, colonial, and immigrant) that shaped the area. While it celebrates the regional identity, it remains a site of reflection regarding the historical conflicts between the Mapuche people and the Chilean state.
We found a restaurant nearby and I had a hot chocolate while Amber sipped on a glass of red wine.
On the way back we went to a super market to grab something for dinner. I was having a stubborn hunger moment and was quite bummed that there wasn’t any grab and go sandwiches available. Amber selected ingredients to cook dinner while I opted for a few plums. I took a bite as soon as we paid and was met with a starchy center. Not my night. After a quick shower, I set an early alarm and went straight to sleep.
Day 41/ April 7, 2026
My alarm went off at 3:50am and I was quickly out the door of our Airbnb and in the car driving towards Talca. While leaving, I was unable to open the front gate and didn’t want to disturb our host so opted to climb over. I teetered precariously at the top before committing to the 8 foot descent and caught the leg of my sweatpants on the way down. It was quite the cartoonish exit and I sure hope the single car that passed by enjoyed the show… they were long trousers and could’ve used a 2 inch hemming anyhow, all is well that ends well!
The rest of the drive was smooth and I enjoyed a beautiful sunrise. I pulled into my apartment complex at 8:30am, had a quick shower, then drove to campus for the Cellular Biology and Histology exam. We were given 2 hours to do 18 multiple choice questions, two short answer response questions, and two longer essay questions. It was fun to put my brain through a timed assessment again though I could not give any estimate as to my performance. Spanish continues to pose a larger challenge than biology, vale, practice makes perfect!
After the test, I returned the rental car, stopped by Lider for poster supplies, and headed to the library on campus. It was time to assemble our group project poster! You may remember we were given a clinical case for 7 year old Cristobal from Puerto Montt who was presenting with pain in his legs and visual signs of rickets. X-rays confirmed he had rickets though his vitamin D levels were normal. Further genetic testing showed that he had X-linked hypophosphatemia. A condition involving a mutation in the PHEX gene which increases the expression of FGF23 in bones. The FGF23 binds to FGF1 receptors in proximal renal tubule cells which in turn blocks the transport of phosphate through NaPi-2a and NaPi-2c. Low phosphate levels directly influence bone mineralization processes with hormonal PTH calcium signaling awry. Similarly, low levels of phosphate result in low levels of ATP which manifests in cardiac and neurological symptoms as well. In this case, Cristobal was given supplemental phosphate and vitamin D alongside newer treatments including a monoclonal antibody to bind excess FGF23.
After a brief visit to the lab, I went home where I heated up a frozen pizza, did some laundry, and went straight to bed.
Day 42/ April 8, 2026
Wednesdays are often busy in the lab!! Javiera and Eiber arrived especially early to avoid the rush. I came in shortly after around 8:30am stopping for a jamon, queso, and palta churrasco on my way in.
The vibes were excellent today! We were jamming out to music and getting work done. Nicolas shared some songs from a traditional chilean folk group called Los de Las Condes. They pair honest, reflective and often sad lyrics with upbeat tempos. In particular he mentioned their song ‘El Corralero’ about a man whose job it is to put down injured horses. The knacker refused in this case as he thought the horse had more life to live. I am interested to hear more from the band!
In the morning I shadowed Nicolas who was teaching the undergrad students how to do a bacterial growth approximation curve by measuring the absorbance over a 24 hour period. These particular samples were being tested to assess potential bactericide or bacteriostatic properties of copper nanoparticles. Absorbance measurements were taken at time point 0, then 2 hours, 4 hours, 8 hours, and 24 hours after the addition of nanoparticles to liquid media with bacterial culture.
I then headed to the office for a bit to make some progress on the blog you’re reading now in addition to the skeletal outline for my review which I will present to Aparna tomorrow. There was a whole fair happening in the campus courtyard! A pizza stand, artisanal fermented products for sale in addition to clothing and jewelry.
I joined Javiera back at the lab at around 2:30pm to seed wells in a 96-well plate for a biofilm test. We added 200uL of media to each well followed by 10uL of her bacteria culture. I quickly centrifuged and weighed two EPS samples for Eiber then headed to my group presentation. Other projects included iron deficient anemia, Acrodermatitis Enteropathica (AE), and more.
It is really feeling like fall here now!!
I am happy to report Amber is 2 days into her trip and seeing so much! I am psyched to get a full report once we meet again in Santiago later this week :))
Right about now it is time for me to post this, walk home, whip up some tomato pasta for dinner then hit the hay.
Chau! Thank you for coming along!
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