Week 21
- 4 days ago
- 29 min read
Day 149 / July 24, 2026
It was another sunny day in San Pedro, it usually is in the desert, and we woke early for a high altitude day. After munching on the leftover steak for breakfast with a Tash egg scramble, we drove the hour up to the town of Machuca. We stopped just outside the city limits to get a high altitude soil sample, then continued to the parking lot.
The comunidad Atacameña de Machuca was in the midst of their annual festival to celebrate their patron saint, San Santiago Apóstol from July 23rd to 25th. That’s to say the place was crowded. We made sure to head straight to the cafe for a cup of coca tea, empanadas, and llama skewers. From there we continued on through the museum, and up to the beautiful, white Iglesia Machuca. Interestingly we didn’t see as many llama grazing in the nearby fields this time. I wonder if the high demand for llama skewers had anything to do with that? As we headed back to the car, we bumped into the same Brazilian family we had seen at Valley de la Luna the day before. We waved hello, both groups chuckling at the coincidence then headed on.
On the drive back down, as I had done with Leslie, we stopped for a stroll through the Reserva de Conservación de Puritama. This time we saw loads of people bathing in the thermals. We asked how it was and they said we had to try it for ourselves. Without hesitation, Lily and Tash took off their socks and shoes and went straight in. Meanwhile, Alex and I scouted from above looking for viscacha. We did manage to spot one elusive fella!
We continued on until we were out of sight from other visitors. For my next sample, I was conscious about wanting to draw from a zone with as little human contact as possible. I pulled 30mL of soil from the riverbed, then another 30mL from the rock wall further up. Sure enough, the Brazilian family appeared again! We spoke to them in broken spanish/portuguese to answer their questions about the view further along the path. I’m not sure if they understood everything we said, but they seemed excited to explore nonetheless!
Big morning meant time for a big lunch! The ladies parked up and headed to the nearby Chasquij food truck while I headed to the post office to ship my samples. Unfortunately I was turned away at the door as they decided to close at noon (on a Friday!?). I met back up with Alex, Lily, and Tash and sipped on my lemonade while thinking about my options. Our flight was early the next day meaning we would have no other time to mail them. I was just going to have to hope and pray I was allowed to take them on the plane with me. I sent a few texts to the lab team to secure the appropriate paperwork confirming permissions for the collections, then read the menu with Alex and agreed to split a lunch. The kitchen was working overtime trying to crank out lunches but we didn't have enough time to wait so we boxed ours to go and head back to the house to quickly change and chill.
SANDBOARDING TIME!! The activity we had all been excitedly waiting for. I was able to book a spot with Sebastian, the awesome instructor I had previously, who agreed to meet us at Valle de la Marte/Muerte. When we pulled in, his car was there blasting music and he was busy laying out all the boards on the sand. We made some brief introductions then he got busy sizing us for boots, helmets, and boards. We got all the kit on, put on more sunscreen, and had one last sip of water.
Thank god for the lunch, because we needed the fuel to work! We started trudging up the big sandy dune and quickly ran out of breath. At the top, Sebastian did his run down of safety concerns, the emergency brake (your butt), and showed us how to wax the boards. We took the first few runs slow and received excellent coaching from him throughout. At the end of our second lap, who did we see?! The Brazilian family! They cheered us on and we laughed given it was the third time seeing them today.
Everyone was slowly getting the hang of it! Though it did take a lot of fumbles and falls to get there. The moon started coming out as the sun continued to set and the dune felt like another world. There was a lot of laughing, cheering, sweating, and learning happening all at once. We were separated between the laps often only seeing each other from a distance as one person started their run while someone else was hiking back up etc.
Eventually we all met at the top again and Sebastian offered to follow us and film so we could see our progress. I went first and let me tell you I ate it SO BAD. My neck still creaks a little when I twist it now, four weeks later. I was working on my turns; I completed one heel to toe turn, but in attempting to go back from toe to heel I stacked it. Sand was everywhere, my head was spinning, but I still remembered my name and what day it was so Sebastian said I was fine. Lily and Alex followed after, taking some pretty hard flops themselves. But if you aren’t falling, you aren’t learning! (To be honest I’ve never been sold by that phrase, but it does make you feel better).
It was time to wrap it up as the park was closing at 6:00pm. We took off our boots, dumped out the sand, and help Sebastian put everything back in his truck. We thanked him for the awesome session then hit the road.
Back at home we each showered and started thinking about dinner. Alex clutched up with yet another great recommendation for La Picada Del Indio. We packed up with our cards and ordered an uber into town. There was a two for one pisco sour special on which we took advantage of in addition to the menu del dia. Alex, Lily, and I went for the set special, while Tash ordered Fettucini Huancaína with beef. We played Dutch while we waited for our food and heard a commotion outside. Tash went to check it out and saw a parade in the streets! Not sure what they were celebrating, but the music was infectious!! Such a great vibe!
After the delicious dinner, we headed over to the main street of Caracoles with the intention to bar hop. Though the tiredness from sandboarding quickly caught up to us and we opted to head home after our first stop at Chela Cabur.
Some of the staff in the bar tried to convince us to check out an outdoor techno night which was happening right next to our Airbnb at Hostel Qiru. With sleep on the mind, there was no convincing us. We did laugh when they showed us a video to try and sell it and there was a) nobody there, and b) it was freezing out!!
To home and cozy beds we went.
Day 150 / July 25, 2026
The next day we woke early to get to the airport for our 9:30am flight. We left the house in San Pedro at 5:00am and drive wo hours through a beautiful desert sunrise to get to Calama.
We returned the rental car with no issues, miraculously made it through security with my dirt, then sat down for a breakfast scramble near the gate. The two hour flight was a breeze, and we all used the time to snooze.
Once in Santiago, we headed straight to the Airbnb who had kindly allowed us to check in early with our bags. Ready for some lunch, we then went to Barra del Pickles. The fried chicken sandwich hit SO good. Dessert was the logical next step, so we stopped by Tienda Kuriimu for ice cream before ubering to our next stop, a wine tasting at Cousiño Macul.
Lily had another stellar suggestion, the vineyard was gorgeous!! A lot bigger than the previous one we toured, and with far longer history too. We started with a welcome glass of rose in the courtyard surrounded by roaming chickens and other visitors.
Cousiño Macul separates visitors into groups by language and as the only English speakers there, we had a private tour to ourselves with the lovely guide JP. We started in the primary fermentation room with a glass of Carmenere, which we sipped while JP explained the first part of the process.
This room is where grapes were initially sorted then placed into huge barrels made from Raulí wood, a Chilean evergreen which has since been protected from felling, meaning these barrels are one of a kind. The barrels were huge!! Though they no longer serve a functional purpose, seeing 52 displayed in the great hall helped to show the scale of production. Each barrel held up to 32,000 liters of wine, so quick math would tell you that’s a LOT of wine. We moved then into a transition room between the old fermentation hall and the new one. There were family portraits along the wall which JP used to tell us about the history of the vineyard.
Founded in 1856, Cousiño Macul is the third oldest winery still in operation today and it is the only 19th century business to remain owned by the founding family. Famously, a number of innovations used by the Cousiño Macul vineyard were developed from the Dama de Plata, or silver lady Isidora Goyenechea when she inherited the operation following the premature death of her husband Matías Cousiño. She introduced a rail and track system inspired by those used in her family’s silver and coal mines in the Lota in the south to increase the ease and efficiency of grape transport throughout the vineyard and winery. In addition, she modified a tractor motor with a toilet flush mechanism to scale up and semi-automate the process of filling bottles with wine. As a close contact of Thomas Edison, her buildings were among the first to have electricity in Chile. She was a genius, businesswoman, and philanthropist that benefited the legacy of the vineyard tremendously.
From there, we headed into the modern fermentation room featuring stainless steel tanks. In addition, we saw the conveyor-belt like stations which were used for initial grape de-stemming and selection. At this point, JP poured out our next glass, a Cabernet Sauvignon which we sipped while pondering a question. He explained, “The vineyard has a carefully selected group of 12 individuals to quality test the grapes. 11 of these people are women. Why?” My first guess, which was wrong, “Is it size related? They can fit into the barrels more easily?”. The resounding giggles indicted that was a certain no. Color blindness and acuity!! Generally speaking, women can better distinguish between subtle hue variations than men can. A very cool fact!
From there, we went into the bottle room where JP explained barrels would be raised by the mounted crane, tapped, drained through the creative motor/flush device, and corked. It was a tedious process that had a lot of moving parts.
Finally we headed down into the gorgeous cellar filled with empty French oak barrels. The initial hall had been constructed with little ventilation and openings only on the north and south side. This did not align with the east-west winds that were most commonly present and instead resulted in a mold problem. A whole new space had been reconstructed and was used to store wine for a long time but now operates just as a tourist attraction. The final stop was a glance at the families’ private collection containing over 3,000 bottles. It was an impressive sight and had Tash questioning JP, “Does the family have an eligible bachelor?” which we all laughed at.
We said our goodbyes and thank yous to JP for such a wonderful visit before making out way to the gift shop. 2021 was supposedly a great year for the vineyard, so per his recommendation we got two bottles of the Antiguas Reservas Cabernet Sauvignon to go. Into an uber we went, back home for the night. We split one of the new bottles in our new glasses and ordered take away pizza. Excited for a new game of cards, Lily explained the rules to the Italian game Scopa. Though it took a second we eventually got the hang of it but Tash kept running away with wins. We are still unsure if it is a game of luck or skill, and are open to hearing your takes.
Day 151 / July 26, 2026
Coming in hot from Peru, VAL!!! It’s rare that he can mix with my friends from the UK, so when he suggested coming to Santiago slightly earlier, I was psyched. I hopped in an uber at 5:45am to meet him at the airport, got a little lost, then bumped into him at the airport bus station.
We hopped on the bus back to central Santiago, and arrived at the Airbnb where we napped for a few hours. At 10:30am everyone else was up so I headed out with Lily, Tash, and Alex to Original Green Roasters for breakfast. We played some more Scopa, which Tash continued to dominate, and scoffed down some delicious eggs benedict.
After breakfast we went on a wander through Lastarria, poking around the street markets, over to the Museum of Human rights where Val was waiting for us in the cafe.
We each had a coffee (I had a hot chocolate duh) and briefly caught up outside. When our glasses were empty and the bill was paid, we went inside and quickly realized with most displays being in Spanish, not everyone was going to understand. Luckily, there was a free English tour that started right around 3:45pm, so we joined.
I spoke about this Museum in a previous update following my visit with Amber, however there were so many more takeaways worth noting from this visit too. First, you are able to leave a message in the form of a written letter or audio recording for any of the survivor’s families. The museum hosts a gathering once a year for those families to meet and connect about the loss, which sounds like a really important reunion. There was a video that I hadn’t noticed on my first visit of Chilean women dancing the cueca alone to protest the dictatorship. Traditionally a happy, partner dance used to symbolize and celebrate courting, was instead reimagined to show the pain and suffering of single women whose partners disappeared or were killed throughout the dictatorship. This power symbol reached global audiences and even inspired Sting’s 1987 single “They Dance Alone (cueca solo)”. I think all of us were choked up watching such a sad demonstration. So thoughtful and incredibly effective!
We left the museum with heavy hearts but brains full of new information. Perhaps a result of our distractedness, none of us acted when a motorcycle jumped up on the sidewalk and went to grab Alex’s phone from her hand. We were shocked. Luckily, she’s a strong lady and that guy had no chance of snatching it from her. The families on the pavement near us warned us Santiago was dangerous and to be especially careful with phones. As city people, we are usually super on it. But he caught us off guard and honestly was a great reminder to keep our wits about us. Even in groups, even when you think you’re okay.
Eventually we loaded into an uber, phones and all, and headed to our Airbnb to regroup before dinner. Alex, Tash, and I were flying to Rapa Nui the next day and needed to store our extra luggage. Similarly, Val was going to head out surfing and didn’t need his alpine gear. We headed to a Bounce, dropped off our bags, then made our way over to Avenida Italia for some dinner.
Alex had ceviche on the mind, so we ended up at PalMar restaurant. We played a quick round of Dutch then had pisco sours and a whole spread of fish, soups, ceviche, and chicharron. At home later that night we taught Val how to play Scopa then tucked in for an early morning.
Day 152 / July 27, 2026
Tash, Alex and I hit the Airport for EASTER ISLANDDDD!!! We said our goodbyes to Lily and Val then got to the airport for 6:30am to check in and settle in before our 8:30am flight. Anticipating 5 hours in the air, we decided to fill up on a yummy breakfast at Bar La Virgen.
Tash read a book while Alex and I slept for most of the journey. We landed at 1:00pm and arrived to the beautiful sound of a polynesian band playing. The arrivals hall was small, but full of happy reunions and beautiful karone tiare, or flower necklaces. Our Airbnb host kindly offered to pick us up and gave us each our own karone tiare as a welcome. He explained that he was from Santiago but living on the island as a contractor to help install electricity systems. Indigenous law 19.253 approved in 1993 restricts land ownership to native Rapa Nui people, and visitors are often only permitted to stay for up to 30 days. So he was a very rare case! After a short 10 minute car ride, we pulled into the house which was perfect! Tash lay claim to the bunk beds, and Alex and I agreed to share the queen.
Excited to explore, we immediately headed out to get some grub. Vai Manu around the corner hit the spot! We split the recommended Rapa Nui special of a ceviche empanada, then Tash and Alex got poke bowls while I had the menu of the day special with a pumpkin soup starter and tuna steak main.
After a lil açai for dessert, we hit the streets and headed towards Hanga Roa Harbor. There was a lil sea turtle bopping around eating seaweed from the boat lines overhead. The whole scene made for a ‘pinch me’ moment.
We ended our explore with a trip to the artisanal market and had a lovely chat with a few of the vendors. I noticed in particular some beautifully carved spoons and asked about them. There were symbols for fertility, peace, as well as other general Rapa Nui characters. I was sold. We walked home, spoon in tow, for a surprise that Alex and Tash had in store.
It was only after getting dressed that we realized our phones kept switching between mainland time and Rapa Nui time. We thought it was 7:00pm, but it was only 5:00pm. We headed back out to kill the time and Tash ended up finding a beautiful red cover up, Alex a T-shirt, and me a pin. Back at the house we had our first interaction with who would become our loyal friend for the rest of the visit, Norman.
At 7:00pm Alex received a text and we headed to the nearby cemetery and into a white van (when your friends say jump, you jump, right?). Everyone gave us a warm welcome but I still had no clue what the plan was. After two more stops picking up other guests, we arrived at Te Ra’ai. It was already dark at that point, and the entrance was glowing with fairy lights.
We were greeted and given Takona, a traditional Rapa Nui art of body painting. An artist used kie’a, paint made from volcanic pigment, and painted each one of our faces with unique strokes and shapes.
We were then given a welcome glass of sangria, invited to take photos together, and ushered over to a seating area surrounding a steaming pile of dirt. The dirt housed a hot pile of food which had been carefully wrapped in banana leaves and left to cook over hot rocks in the ground for hours before. This Umu Pae represented a way of cooking that had been used by the islanders for centuries. Often compared to the Chilean curanto, there are distinct ingredients and preparations that differ based on regional availability. We watched as our host, Victor Ika, explained the process and shared a bit about his vision for founding this center. He welcomed us to join him in the Umu Hatu ritual to give thanks before the meal. We followed his low series of chants then proceeded to do a dance led by his mother. It was a wonderful and incredibly unique way to start a meal. After that we headed inside the venue and prepared plates of food from the buffet.
Right as we got to our seats, the Haha Varua dance show started. The show was intended to follow a chronological timeline of Rapa Nui history. It started with the migration of King Hotu Matu’a to the island. Then Hoko war dance followed by a dance to illustrate the Birdman, Tangata Manu, ceremony. The Sau Sau and Ute are modern styles of dance with strong Tahitian influence that sometimes make an appearance as well. This show was particularly special because it featured a solo dance by a pregnant women. It was beautiful and slow, intended to be a dance of love to honor the new life, te poki, as a manifestation of the sacred, invisible life force Mana. There were huge rounds of applause following each act.
Just as we thought the night was over, the dancers called up guests on stage to join in one last dance. We all went up and tried our best to follow the skillful rhythm of the dancers.
The bus back home we were glowing with full bellies and big smiles from such a fun night. Alex (and Tash) did an amazing job with the planning and we all had a blast!
Day 153 / July 28, 2026
The next morning we were up and at em, conscious to get in a breakfast before going on a tour for the day. We made our way back over near the artisanal market where the connected cafe was making empanadas fresh to order. We each had one pino empanda, and ordered a queso to share.
By 9:00am, our tour guide, Yoyo, messaged that he was outside to pick us up. We headed over and greeted the rest of the tour group already on the van. We got to chatting with a solo traveler, Nikkie, who was a teacher from Seattle enjoying her well-earned summer off. The van drove 30 minutes across the island from Hanga Roa downtown to the archaeological site of Anakena. En route, Yoyo pointed out a small hill and shared about Haka Pei. This thrilling, high-adrenaline ancestral sport remains the absolute highlight of the annual Tapati Rapa Nui Festival celebrated every February. The competition takes place on the terrifyingly steep, forty-five-degree slopes of the Maunga Pu'i volcano, where local athletes compete to see who can slide down the grassy hillside the fastest and furthest. The rustic sleds, known as huri, are handcrafted entirely from natural materials by securely lashing together two freshly cut banana tree trunks using strong plant fibers. The natural, milky sap of the raw banana trunks acts as a highly effective lubricant, reducing friction against the dry grass to allow the sled to glide at breakneck speeds. Before launching themselves off the crest of the hill, competitors strip down to a traditional loincloth (hami) and cover their bodies in protective Takona ritual paint to channel the Mana and bravery of their ancestors. Lying completely flat on their backs, feet first, and with absolutely no steering mechanisms or brakes, these daring participants hurtle down the one-hundred-and-twenty-meter track, frequently reaching extreme speeds between seventy and eighty kilometers per hour. Because of the immense physical danger, unpredictable tumbles, and high risk of injury, Haka Pei is strictly reserved for seasoned local warriors, drawing thousands of spectators to the base of the volcano each summer to watch a pure, modern-day test of tribal honor and raw physical courage. And this was just the beginning!
Shortly after, we checked in at the national park entry gate, showed our passes, and headed down the boardwalk towards the ocean. Anakena is one of the only sandy beaches on the island, but we weren’t here for that. Instead, Yoyo explained the history of the Ahu Nau Nau a monument 150 meters from the water, housing seven of the best preserved moai. It was said to have been constructed between 1100 and 1400 AD.
Notably, it was at this site archeologists first uncovered the remains of coral which were used to create eyes on the moai when they arrived at their final platform or ahu. Perhaps worth taking this description with a grain of salt but to provide some background: the moai statues were monumental ancestral vessels carved directly from compressed volcanic ash, tuff, inside the crater of the Rano Raraku quarry. Then, their distinct red topknots, pukao, were sourced from red scoria at Puna Pau and their lifelike eyes were inlaid with white coral and obsidian. To move the multi-ton monoliths across miles of rugged terrain, the Rapa Nui people engineered statues with a forward-leaning center of gravity and rounded bases, allowing teams to use ropes to rock them rhythmically from side to side in a vertical, “walking” motion. Rather than abstract deities, the statues represented the living faces of deceased chiefs and kings, purposefully positioned facing inward toward the villages to project Mana. However, as severe resource depletion over the centuries led to intense tribal warfare, opposing clans engaged in a practice called Huri Mo’ai, deliberately toppling the statues face-down to shatter their necks and break their coral eyes, effectively blinding the enemy’s spiritual protection and permanently destroying their clan’s source of power.
Yoyo pointed out the unique markings on each statue, likely tā tū (tattoos). In addition, we passed other artifacts including a bowl which had a dolphin carved into it. Yoyo splashed water which helped to contrast between the carved rock and plain sections. As a lot of the rock was volcanic and quite porous, the signs of erosion were clear. At this point Yoyo also gave a bit of background to say the moai as we saw them today, were a product of restoration projects from the 1950’s to 1990’s. Prior to this, almost all had been toppled from various conflicts between groups on the island.
We were given the chance for a quick bathroom break, then loaded into the van for our next stop, Te Pito Kura, the sacred belly button (Rapa Nui is also called Te Pito o Te Henua “belly button of the world”). This rock has a high iron content giving it some amount of magnetism. The rock featured in a number of traditional ceremonies such as a coming of age ceremony for adolescents who would dance on the stone marking a transition to adulthood.
Nearby Yoyo stopped by a structure of neatly stacked rocks and asked us what we thought it was for. Having heard about all the wars and battles, “is it a bunker?” “No” he replied. It was a chicken coop! Hare Moa!
Then, Yoyo pointed out Moai Paro, the site of what is believed to be the biggest moai ever erected. Just under 10m / 33ft tall, the statue now lies face down, toppled from a conflict.
Into the van we went, and over to Rano Raraku quarry. The impressive peak stands alone with grassy slopes dotted with fallen moai frozen in time. The final freeze happened around the late 17th century. As the island ran out of natural resources and devastating tribal civil wars broke out, the absolute power of the Ariki (chiefs) shattered. The islanders abandoned the ancestral moai religion entirely and pivoted to a new, democratic governing system: the Birdman Cult (Tangata Manu) based at Orongo. The demand for giant stone ancestors instantly ceased, leaving nearly 400 statues frozen on the factory floor forever.
Just as we rounded the corner, we came across the unusual Moai Tukuturi, or kneeling moai. The most widely accepted theory is that it was built toward the very end of the moai era, perhaps tied to the newer Birdman Cult, to permanently represent a master ceremonial singer looking toward the sky. The word tuku turi or tuku refers to a traditional kneeling posture used during ancient festivals by the chorus or singers of sacred chants called riu. The backward tilt of the torso, the raised head, and the beard on the statue perfectly mirror the physical description of ancient Rapa Nui priests leading the community in heavy, rhythmic prayer chants.
After the walk around the quarry, we settled in for a lunch at Restaurante Julio Calderon Chave. We each had a glass of the Rapa Nui Mahina lager, then Alex and Tash had barros lucca sandwiches and I had a beef steak and rice.
After that we made the short trip over to Ahu Tongariki. This massive structure featuring 15 moai is recognized as the largest intact Polynesian ceremonial structure. It suffered two major destruction events, the first being tribal wars and the next being a tsunami in 1960. A historic partnership with Japan facilitated the most recent reconstruction in the 1990s. Just before you enter the site, you will notice a moai standing by itself facing outwards towards the ocean. Known as the Traveling Moai, this statue was sent to Japan in 1989 for a cultural exhibition in Osaka. Its temporary journey created the deep diplomatic bond between the Rapa Nui people and Japan, which directly led to the multi-million dollar machinery donation that restored the main 15-statue platform.
Less obvious but incredibly important, are the Hare Paenga houses and petroglyphs near Tongariki. The long, curved basalt stone lines embedded in the grass in front of Ahu Tongariki are the architectural foundations of ancient elite residences known as Hare Paenga, or boat-shaped houses. Master stonecutters meticulously chiseled these dense black volcanic blocks, fitting them together end-to-end to replicate the sleek, elongated silhouette of an overturned canoe hull. The top surface of each stone foundation features a series of precisely drilled vertical holes where builders inserted pliable wooden poles, which were bent inward, lashed to a central ridge beam, and heavily thatched with layers of sugarcane leaves, totora reeds, and wild grass to create a completely weatherproof shelter. Because timber and thatch were scarce, high-quality resources on the island, these sturdy structures were strictly reserved for the ruling class, including paramount chiefs, high priests, and master artisans. The interior of a Hare Paenga was dark and low, intentionally engineered purely for sleeping, while daily life took place entirely outdoors on the smooth, semi-circular stone patios, poro, paving the front entryway. Today, these enduring stone outlines sit alongside ancient subterranean cooking pits, Umu Pae, and small stone-walled chicken coops, Hare Moa, offering a vivid footprint of a high-status prehistoric neighborhood that once operated right in the shadow of the great 15-moai platform.
Stretched across the flat, exposed lava flows protruding from the grass near the entrance of the archaeological site lies Papa Tataku Poki, a magnificent open-air gallery of sacred Rapa Nui petroglyphs. These low-relief engravings were chiseled directly into the smooth volcanic bedrock, papa, capturing the profound spiritual and maritime relationship between the ancient Hotu Iti clan and the surrounding Pacific Ocean. The most prominent and celebrated carvings within this expansive rock art canvas are two large, beautifully preserved sea turtles, honu, depicted with intricate geometric shell patterns and flippers. In ancient Polynesian culture, sea turtles were considered highly sacred creatures capable of navigating between the physical and spiritual worlds, and their meat was a tightly restricted delicacy reserved exclusively for high-ranking chiefs and formal spiritual offerings. Alongside these royal turtles, the stone canvas features a rich tapestry of oceanic iconography, including stylized tuna fish, sharks, abstract marine deities, and prominent stylized faces of the creator god with wide, unblinking eyes.
Aside from the wonderful sites, it was also awesome to hear about Yoyo’s life on the island. Just a few years prior he had built a sailboat with some friends on mainland Chile and sailed it to Rapa Nui. What an adventure! He quizzed us one last time by asking, what drug do you think I brought to improve the journey? After listing off every possible recreational and medical option, we were stumped. He said “it’s really simple. Sugar!”
We rode back to Hanga Roa where the tour group separated. With so much information to process and so much time left in the day, we did what anyone would do and went for an ice cream.
Nikkie joined us which gave us another chance to hear about her summer travels so far. In particular she shared a haunting story of her experience sandboarding in Peru the week prior. There had been a tragic accident causing one of the buggies to flip, severing the arm of a young, female passenger inside. The story hit a bit close to home considering we had just been in the dunes ourselves a few days prior. Our hearts went out to Nikkie and we are certainly keeping the injured girl in our thoughts.
After ice cream, we said hello to the turtle paddling around the harbor and headed into town for some more shopping. Nikkie had a busy night with stargazing planned, so we said our goodbyes and she headed home. After exploring downtown and checking out the Mana Gallery, we headed home.
We spent a solid chunk of time saying hello to Norman then each showered and got ready for a sunset walk.
The nearby Ahu Vai Uri was full of people sitting on the grass and taking in the ocean view. We found a spot near the rock wall and settled in. Much to our surprise, Norman followed us! We kept him in sight at all times, especially with lots of bigger dogs roaming around, but he held his own.
It was time for dinner then, so we headed straight over to Pea restobar. We were expecting Norman to head on home, but he seemed set on sticking around. We sat in the outdoor deck area of the restaurant and he settled right underneath the table by our feet. We split the mixed platter of ceviche, empanadas, shrimp, and tartare. Then I had a steak, Tash had some Tuna, and Alex a ceviche.
We were stuffed! We practically rolled ourselves home while Norman led the way. We finished editing some goofy tiktoks then called it a night.
Day 154 / July 29, 2026
We started our last day in Rapa Nui with a sunrise walk to Ahu Tahai, just past Ahu Vai Uri. Tash stopped to say hello to a gorgeous, and very hungry horse.
We continued on until we were right in front of Ahu Tahai where we stared at the sky and tried to find shapes in the clouds. Although we could’ve stayed for longer, we had a schedule to stick to.
I went ahead into town to order six empanadas for breakfast while Alex and Tash stayed behind to complete the Airbnb check out instructions. The arrived just 15 minutes later and we munched on our warm empanadas. That’s not all because Norman decided to follow yet again! I swear we didn’t feed him a thing, I think he just wanted some friends. He sat by our feet at the cafe, then when it was time to go with our new guide, Patricio, he jumped in the car!! We managed to get in and close all the doors, at which point Patricio assured us he would be able to find his way home.
Interestingly, our new guide for the day was Chilean! Patricio was born and raised in Santiago, but met his wife, a lady from Rapa Nui, in school. They got married some 50 years ago, and he had been living on the island ever since! Of note, the exam to be a guide is quite extensive, and without the family knowledge, it means Patricio had to work especially hard to fill in the gaps. It was so clear how much respect he held for the history of the place. We first stopped along the Reina Karo Orono road at the Hanga Roa lookout. Rapa Nui is made up of 3 major volcanoes, and is roughly triangular in shape with a volcano at each point. In between are 70 subsidiary craters and vents. In close proximity to Volcan Kau, we were on one of the highest points on the island.
After our quick pitstop, we continued on to the Orongo village visitor center. Following the intense tribal warfare and the collapse of the moai religion around the late 17th century, the islanders established the aforementioned Birdman Cult (Tangata Manu) to democratically redistribute political and spiritual power among competing clans. Perched 300 meters high on the edge of the Rano Kau volcanic crater, the stone ceremonial village of Orongo served as the high-stakes headquarters for this new system. Every spring, each clan chief appointed an elite warrior, hopu manu, to compete in a death-defying ritual race to retrieve the first seasonal egg of the migratory sooty tern, manutara, from the jagged offshore islet of Motu Nui. Competitors had to scale down vertical sea cliffs, swim through shark-infested waters on reed floats, wait weeks for the birds to lay, and safely ascend back to Orongo with an intact egg strapped to their forehead. The chief of the winning warrior was crowned the Tangata Manu for exactly one year, earning absolute governing authority and divine prestige under the spiritual mandate of the creator god, effectively maintaining peaceful tribal co-existence until Western influence ended the practice in the late 19th century.
It was an incredibly unique and fascinating system! It felt like the restored village retained the memories and energy of competitions past.
Where were the women during this ceremony you might ask? Great question. I can’t speak for all of them, but it is worth noting the counterpart ceremony which would run ahead of the birdman competition. Ana o Keke, famously known as the “Cave of the Virgins,” is a cramped, four-hundred-and-forty-meter volcanic lava tube on the steep cliffs of the Poike Peninsula where elite royal young women, called neru, underwent months of absolute ritual isolation. In ancient Rapa Nui society, exceptionally pale, sun-protected skin and long fingernails were considered supreme status markers of beauty and divine purity, prompting priests to keep these maidens hidden away from all sunlight and manual labor. While confined inside the dark cavern, the young women were brought fresh water from rainwater pools and intensively educated by elders in the high arts of oral history, sacred songs, and Kai-kai string storytelling. This grueling purification process directly culminated at the spring Orongo assemblies, where the chief of the winning Birdman clan earned the ultimate right to marry a pristine, high-status neru maiden, successfully uniting the island's supreme military power with its most sacred royal bloodline.
We walked past the volcano crater, and then we stopped at the ahu for Hoa Hakananai'a.
Translating to missing or lost, this unique basalt moai is currently held by the British Museum in London. It was taken from the ceremonial village of Orongo in 1868 by a British naval crew and gifted to Queen Victoria. The people of Rapa Nui are actively campaigning for its repatriation, as they consider it a sacred living ancestor holding spiritual power. From there we went back to the car.
For our next stop, we headed to Ahu Vinapú. Ahu Vinapú is exceptionally unique because it showcases the absolute pinnacle of ancient Polynesian engineering through a seamless, mortarless retaining wall of massive, interlocking basalt blocks so perfectly carved and aligned that they visually mirror imperial Inca architecture, while also harboring a highly rare, two-headed female moai funerary pillar. This eroded column breaks all traditional moai conventions by depicting distinct feminine attributes and being sculpted entirely from the soft, red scoria stone of the Puna Pau quarry rather than standard grey volcanic ash.
Serving a sacred dual purpose, the masterfully cut stone wall highlights the independent mathematical sophistication of Rapa Nui builders, while the rare female pillar functioned as an ancient cremation platform where priests ceremonially processed the remains of elite ancestors to secure their Mana for the community. While its high-precision stonework looks modern and advanced, radiocarbon dating and archaeological excavations place its construction timeline much earlier than many of the massive, standardized platforms found elsewhere. Therefore, Vinapú is special because it represents a rare, incredibly sophisticated “early-to-middle” chapter of Rapa Nui history before environmental crisis and intense standardization changed how the society built its monuments.
With just three quick stops left, we were starting to dread the journey back. Rapa Nui is stunning! So inviting, so incredibly well kept, and feels about as natural and raw as any place could possibly feel. Patricio pulled over along Hana Pouka and we made our way over to Pipa de Hotu Matua, a blowhole! I had never seen one of these before, but the volcanic rock erodes in such a way that upon impact from the wave, a blast of ocean mist comes out resembling a blowhole! Alex was THRILLED!
We watched for a few moments then hopped in the car to our penultimate spot on the tour. While on route, we passed a family of cyclists who were climbing all over the unmarked ruble of a moai monument. Horrified, Patricio stopped the car and went over to talk to them. He did a great job keeping his cool and being kind, but the three of us in the car could not believe the audacity or stupidity of such an act. When he joined us again, he explained that if he had taken a photo, they would have been kicked off the island no questions asked. It really is that serious. Obviously mistakes happen (I make many, all the time) but let this serve as a reminder to be respectful, and most importantly be aware of your surroundings especially when visiting a new place.
Shortly after, we arrived at Puna Pau, the quarry for topknots. While the moai were ‘walked’ to their final ahu, the topknots were rolled. Keeping that in mind, carvers produced larger pieces anticipating they would wear away in the journey to the ahu. Like the moai at Rano Raraku frozen in time, there were some unfinished top knots left behind. Finally it was time for our last stop at Ahu Akivi, the seven moai.
Ahu Akivi is a highly unique inland ceremonial platform engineered as both a sacred monument to the island’s founding legend and a precise astronomical calendar. According to Rapa Nui oral tradition, the seven identical statues represent the elite young scouts sent across the Pacific by King Hotu Matu’a to locate the island, standing in a permanent vigil looking out across the waves toward their mythical homeland of Hiva.
Beyond folklore, the platform was built with absolute mathematical precision to perfectly align with the Spring and Autumn Equinoxes, positioning the statues to look directly into the setting sun to function as a massive stone clock. This alignment allowed high priests to accurately track the changing seasons, signaling to the ancient clans the exact timing for lifting deep-sea fishing restrictions and planting vital crops to ensure the survival of the community.
The tours across the two days were wonderful and we were so lucky to have such caring and informative guides. Huge thank you Yoyo and Patricio!
Patricio brought us to the airport, but not without suggesting we try the pineapples nearby. Of course, heeding to that recommendation we found ourselves sitting at the nearby Flavors of Rapa Nui stand; pineapple in hand and Mahani beer in the can. Alex and I pounded the sweet, lil pineapple while Tash played with the shop owner’s daughter. That toddler was so excited to have someone else to play dolls with.
There was no denying it, we couldn't stall any longer. We headed inside, made it through securing and sat by the gate where chickens roamed around. We boarded the plane and started to watch Sirāt all together. My goodness was that a roller coaster of a film!
We landed in Santiago at 10:30pm and made it to the Airbnb by 11:15pm. Val, the legend he is, had prepared a roast chicken dinner AND lemon syllabub dessert for us. A burning man DJ set played on the telly while we shared all about Rapa Nui and he shared about his day in Santiago with Lily and surfing in Pichelemu. Everything was awesome. We were in bed by 1:00am and conked out instantly.
Day 155 / July 30, 2026
It was the final Chile day with Alex today :((
We started with a big breakfast at Original Green Roasters again, alongside some rounds of dutch.
We then wandered over to MUT, explored the stalls and ended up in MeliMelo for sopapillas and some afternoon drinks.
Taking advantage of the blue skies and beautiful weather, we then ventured to the Teleférico up Cerro San Cristobal for city views.
We took the funicular on the way down and stopped for a visit to the Santiago zoo.
It was free so we didn’t think much of it, but going inside it was so clear there were a bunch of unhappy animals. The enclosures were really small, most were muddy and barren, lacking any kind of enrichment features. So so so sad. We went from seeing flamingos slurping on shrimp in the open Salar de Atacama the week before to now fifty piled into a small sad pen.
Looking to end the trip on a happy note we made out way over to bustling Bellavista for a dinner at Ciudad Vieja. We were hungry! We all shared sopapillas and a mixed starter then Val and I split mac and cheese (sorry, how could I not) alongside our own pastel de choclos. Tash and Alex got some Barros Minero’s, or miner’s sandwiches loaded with meat, carmelized onions, chips and cheese.
Somehow, Alex and Val were able to walk on their hands after that. Tash and I just watched in utter amazement.
We went back to the Airbnb for 7:30pm for Alex to pack up her things and head to the airport. We said our goodbyes and into the uber she went.
The night was still young! Tash, Val, and I headed out for the 9:30pm jazz show at Thelonious. Let me tell you this is the place to be!! The quartet included Juanchi Pérez on drums, Cristián Gallardo on saxophone, Mauricio Rodríguez with his guitar, and Andrés Landon on bass. They were SO good. The venue was such a sweet spot as well! There were all kinds of smart design choices like rugs on the floor and creative pops of accent colors that made it feel upbeat and cozy.
To end the night, we made a quick stop at Barra de Pickles again where they had a late night vibe going. Supposedly every night after 8:00pm they turn on the disco lights and bring in a DJ until close.
Santiago, I wasn’t familiar with your game!!
I appreciate this week was a long and potentially confusing one going from the Atacama, to city adventures in Santiago, to Rapa Nui…thank you for sticking through it with me! As they say, don't cry because it's over, smile because it happened. : , )
Chau for now! :)
Love it, love it. You've seen so many amazing bucket list places! So beautiful to share adventures with the people you love. Thankfully you all survived the sand skiing. Norman is adorable. 😀