Week 3
- Mar 26
- 15 min read
Updated: Mar 31
Lucky number 3!
Day 16 / March 13, 2026
Starting off with Friday the 13th, ahhhh! Fortunately, no superstitious activity to note. I worked with Nicolás and Javiera to review the results from an initial UV sensitivity test as part of the bacteria characterization process for a new sample from the Deception Island study. It was important to ensure an even distribution of bacteria on the plates, consistent placement of equal distance from the UV source, as well as a number of other criteria. We opted to repeat the experiment the following week. I then did homework in preparation for class next week. In addition, I worked on adding papers to my catalog for the literature review.
After lab as I was walking home there was a fair happening in Plaza de Armas ‘Feria Del Libro 2026’. The square had been transformed into a stage for music, food stalls, and the sale of artisanal products. I purchased a plant and carried it the rest of the way home. At the entrance to the building a man offered to help me carry the plant. We got to chatting and it turns out Germán is learning English to move to Europe for work. I mentioned I was in the process of learning Spanish so we went for a coffee and proceeded to speak in Spanglish! Afterwards I took a quick trip to the climbing gym, ate a bowl of cereal for dinner and tucked in for the night.
Day 17/ March 14, 2026
On Saturday I spent the morning exploring a different part of Talca! I ran from home to the botanical gardens at University of Talca. The campus is so modern and spacious, it felt like its own world.
After a quick poke around, I ventured south again. Nicolás told me about the market on Calle 11 Oriente which is open on weekends. The whole street is pedestrianized and people come to sell produce, clothing, all kinds of things!
I purchased some maté, one lemon flavored bag and another red fruit-flavored. I had to supplement with some googling myself, but yerba maté is a popular drink throughout South America using dried leaves from the Ilex paraguariensis plant. It has a strong, bitter taste that people will often sweeten with honey or sugar. In addition to the mate, I purchased some veggies and some honey. It was time for breakfast so I popped into the first place I saw, Casa de Campo, (meaning country house) and had their sandwich/tea/orange juice bundle deal for $3. There is a painting on the wall which says 'his two loves' and beneath the logo for the local Rangers Soccer team and the flag of Chile. I don't know who "his" was referring too, but I admire the sentiment!
Later in the day, I met Nayar at the Feria de Libro (the book fair) where I found some mugs and bombillas (straws) that were perfect for sipping!
The rest of the afternoon was spent prepping for visitors and another quick trip to the climbing gym!
Day 18 / March 15, 2026
At 8am I hopped on an early train to Santiago where I spent the day exploring. It rings true for most places I visit, in that I always feel a need to walk to a lookout point! It can be overwhelming to choose where exactly to start but I find this wider view lets you achieve an initial sense of accomplishment, a literal understanding of the terrain/ layout of the land, and potential fun discoveries along the way! So I set off from the Estacion Central towards Cerro San Cristobal.
On the way, I snacked on some empanadas from the Bellavista district, spotted some cute cafes and restaurants and admired all of the artwork on the streets.
After arriving at the base, I took a second to orient myself towards the hiking trails. It was busy! Many guests get to the top via a cable car or trolley, though the majority seem to hike down. The short trek was so worth it! I was rewarded with stunning views at the top and spent a moment taking in the families and friends sharing water under the sun.
After Cerro San Cristobal, I headed towards my hostel for the night located near Brasilia park. I would certainly recommend the Casa Roja hostel! Situated in a converted building it features large bunk rooms, a swimming pool, game rooms and open courtyards behind an unsuspecting exterior.
I briefly popped out for dinner and an ice cream. Trying to stick to Chilean flavors, I had a delicious Salmon and Tuna tartare platter from Sangucheria Cosmo then a scoop of Arroz con Leche (rice pudding) and Chocolate Patogonico (with raspberries) from Filippo.
The Brasilia park was teeming with life! Kiddos were playing, taking painting classes, and adults as well were playing futbol, doing acrobatics and playing music. I headed to bed shortly after!
Day 19/ March 16, 2026
At 6am I got up and boarded a bus to the airport, picked up a rental car, and reunited with Val!! :))
We grabbed some Starbucks for the journey and started the drive south towards Talca. The mountains are even more spectacular from the car! The endless vineyards, highway cows, and funky clouds made for some exciting views. We shared panqueques con manjar and a Barros Luco sandwich at Juan y Medio, a popular rest stop for travelers along Ruta 5 Sur.
Once in Talca, we stopped for a quick grocery shop at Jumbo before heading to the climbing gym. After a short walk around town, we returned home where Val cheffed up some delicious Salmon rice bowls. We sipped on iced Pisco sour and planned for the rest of the week.
Day 20/ March 17,2026
Tuesday morning started again with Cellular Biology and Histology class. We discussed cellular membrane components, more specifically the lipid bilayer surrounding human cells. Dr. Charles went into great depth on the positional properties of transmembrane proteins and how the various diffusion, flexion, rotation, and flip-flop patterns of membrane lipids may affect orientation.
I later went to the lab where Nicolas had started to prepare glass plates for the new UV run. We used acetone to remove any previous sharpie labels. Then we packed the plates in stacks of 4-5 and wrapped them with brown paper, sealing them with a piece of autoclave tape. The plates were autoclaved for one hour and left to dry in the oven overnight. After the lab I spoke with Angelica from the Fulbright Chile team to plan for my next Register Civil visit. Though my visa has been secured, I am expected to confirm my arrival in Chile at a local SERMIG branch and collect my Chilean ID. I visited the week prior but was told I needed an additional document. Immigration processes can be confusing!
Afterwards Val and I ventured to Valle de los Cóndores trying to squeeze out the last bit of sunlight. We were certainly rewarded for our efforts! An incredibly beautiful landscape with so many activities to be had. We opted for some climbing and Val helped to refresh my amateur belay skills. The drive home under the stars was equally stunning though tense as we were running the fuel tank close to empty… live and learn, refuel early!
Day 21/March 18, 2026
Wednesday was a mega day!! I met Javiera at 8:40am to take the micro to Universidad Católica Maule for Cynthia’s doctoral defense presentation. Micros are the small, rapid buses which cover the majority of the Talca public transit system. Each ride costs 600 CLP (70¢ USD) for an adult. Interestingly, there are limited published route maps. Though there are roughly 10 lines in service, it takes experience or a quick conversation with the bus driver to confirm the destination.
After arriving at UCM Javiera gave me a brief tour of the campus before heading into the Aula Magna Auditorium. Cynthia delivered an hour long presentation of her work and then responded to one hour of questions from three committee members. The audience was excused to allow for deliberation, and a few quick moments later the announcement was made confirming a successful defense! We celebrated with fruit juice and canapés then returned to the U Autónoma campus.
In addition to the lab work associated with my project, I have a lab practical Wednesday evenings to supplement the lectures for the Cellular Biology Class. This week we reviewed the structure/function of a compound light microscope and practiced using it through various activities. The blue photo below shows a thin layer of skin from an onion which we dyed methylene blue to highlight the cell membrane.
While I was at school, Val headed to Constitución for the day. He saw sea lions basking on rocks, ate some delicious sopa de marisco and passed through the picturesque San Javier (all things on my to do list as well!!). He picked me up after the lab at 6:30pm and we hiked up Piedra de Peñon together. One of the stray dogs in the area showed us a path with a view of the coastal mountains. Truly a special spot!
We later grabbed some completos together at the 5 Oriente stand and tucked in for the night. (This time I opted for no mayo, with chucrut (sauerkraut)… so good!)
Day 22/March 19, 2026
On Thursday morning I made my second attempt to get my Chilean ID which was again unsuccessful (they need a photo copy of my passport, not the actual passport). Alas I’m hoping the third time will be the charm!
I picked up a slice of commiseration kuchen sureño de frambuesa from Alimentos Pucon for breakfast en route to the lab. What I thought was a cheesecake was more of a gelatinous jelly texture with a flavor quite similar to rice pudding… hit the spot!
At 11 Nicolas and I started the UV exposure experiment comparing just five time points: 0 min, then 10, 20, 30, and 40 minutes. We then stored the plates in an incubator overnight and Nicolas took photos the next day. There was high tolerance exhibited across all time points suggesting we need to repeat the experiment for longer, and/or ensure that our UV lamp is producing sufficient levels of UV.
After storing the last sample, I darted home and quickly packed for the weekend. Val and I started the drive north to Santiago at around 1pm. Two hours into the journey I briefed Val on our first pit stop: Fuegos de Apalta. This is far more than a restaurant, it is a destination. Located amidst the grape vines of Viña Montes deep in the Valle de Colchagua, Fuegos de Apalta is a product of the creative genius Francis Mallmann. Born in Argentina and now residing in the Patagonia region, Mallmann has honed a number of techniques for cooking with fire. His menu celebrates the flavors of South America and does so with a rustic, hearty, and certain approach.
We dined on a complementary spread of sourdough and focaccia with a hummus dip to start. For appetizers we enjoyed the empanadas (wow!) and polenta. Following with the braised lamb and grilled ribeye featuring potato accompaniments, a Mallmann signature piece. Finally a burnt orange manjar pancake and caramelized figs with basil marscapone to finish. Being that we were in the heart of the wine region, worth mentioning we took the in-house sommelier’s recommendation for a Monte’s 2021 Alpha Pinot Noir glass each to start (pairing well with the empanadas) and shared a glass of Sauvignon Blanc to go with dessert.
** I should of course note that this was a very special treat and dining experiences like this one do not happen on a regular basis. I am sharing in depth here both to jog my own memory during future recounts and to provide a detailed description of the experience in the off chance anyone else would like to visit. Please always reach out with questions!
To read more about Mallmann, see this TimeOut article here: https://www.timeout.com/es/buenos-aires/francis-mallmann-siete-fuegos-chef-autodidacta-libertad
With full bellies we hit the road and resumed our journey to Santiago. Val suggested another detour for go-karting and we soon ended up at Karting Pirque for a sunset race. The first race was a great warm up with just the two of us against a father and son. The second race, however, had some serious heat. There were 8 of us on the track and most had brought their own helmets and gloves 😳. Val was able to hold his own but I finished solidly in last place. Karting culture in Chile is huge! As well as offering advice for fastest lines around the track, the other racers and workers gave recommendations for a track in Talca. Who knows, maybe you’ll find me out there.
We arrived in Santiago and checked into the hotel for the night. After a few quick games of Geoguesser it was time for bed.
Day 23/ March 20, 2026
Fulbright orientation day!! I woke up at 7am, snagged a quick breakfast from the hotel buffet and had a lovely call with Alex Hill :))
At 8:45am I headed to the metro and rode the red line until the Santa Lucía station. It was a short walk over to the startup lab 01 building where the orientation was scheduled. After brief introductions, Dr. Susan Bueno opened with a presentation on the status and objectives of health research in Chile. She mentioned the existing barriers of funding and infrastructure to conduct research in addition to highlighting the incredible progress in Chile in recent years with the introduction of various consortiums, GMP standards, and private institutions. Maria Antonia Maloney followed with a presentation on behalf of American Citizen Services to share travel tips, safety guidelines, and contact information.
Next, Ignacio Correa, Director of Development at Territoria, presented the plans for the building we were in. Referred to as NIDO (Nodo de Innovación y Desarrollo de Oportunidades) also translating to ‘nest’ in English, the building presents a hub in the “chile-con valley” area. With radical sustainability in mind, Ignacio is a firm believer that public space is a value creator and envisions the new building as a place for development in all areas. NIDO will feature an open dining area at the base, direct connections to the metro, wet and dry laboratories available for leasing through Startuplab01 and more. In addition, the new Fulbright offices will be there!
Vincente Pavani and Felipe Calleja then gave us a tour of the Startuplab.01 spaces. Modern, bright, and spacious, these areas make for the incubation of great ideas. There are various funds in place to support startups and I would certainly recommend checking out their website to learn more!!
Carolina Jarpa then shared the resources and programming available throughout Chile at American Spaces. Founded for networking, language learning, and cultural exchange, these spaces are located throughout Chile. I certainly intend to join the local Talca network!
The final presentation was given by Paloma Baytelman from the Chilean Council for Science Technology. A Fulbrighter herself, Paloma provided an overview of the advisory framework in place to translate scientific findings to government officials. They create an impartial, annual review each year to inform strategic planning, improve relationships, and share knowledge.
So many wonderful discussions and thoughtful presentations worked up an appetite, and it was time for lunch! At this point, our individual hosts and professors joined, the room was full of life and chatter! We took various photos together and then headed out for a tour of La Moñeda. Built in 1805, La Moñeda was initially designed to be a mint and produce coins for Chile. In 1846 the Chilean president repurposed the building for his residence and set aside space for government operations as well. We saw the beautiful Patio de los Naranjos courtyard, the chapel (capillo), and Salón Montt Varas. Manuel Mott president of Chile from 1851-1861 had a very close relationship with his minister Antonio Varas. Beyond working together, they were best friends and remained buried together at the Cementerio General in Santiago in mausoleum No 16. Like the Salón Montt Varas inside La Moñeda, you will find streets named Montt and Varas next to eachother in most towns and the cities of Puerto Montt and Puerto Varas are intentionally nearby in the south. Interestingly, we learned that the flags on La Moñeda provide a signal for the location of the president. If they bear the Chilean crest, he is somewhere within Chile, though if they are the normal flags, he is outside. Under the crest is the saying “por la razón o la fuerza” meaning by reason or by force. I found this especially powerful.
After an incredible but long day, I reunited with Val who had been exploring the city. We jumped in the car and headed towards Valparaíso hoping for sun and ocean! We dropped our bags off at the Airbnb (protected by 3 cuddly cats) then had a dinner in the old town at Inquilino consisting of ceviche, pesto mechada ravioli and more sopa marisco. We then shared some lovely cocktails at Tío bar (ft jorge a friendly pup!!) and enjoyed a night out in Valparaíso.
Day 24/ March 21, 2026
Saturday mission: surf. After a quick, though necessary, detour for empanadas at Pueblo Viejo we rented wetsuits and boards from Soul Surf Concon for $10 each and hit the beach. So much was happening on the beach from horse riding to swimming and at one point there was even a massive plane escort flying overhead. Fighting whitewash in the sun certainly tires you out.
We eventually returned our rentals, had even more empanadas for lunch, then started driving east towards Cajón del Maipo. We stopped at Lider on the way for camping snacks and water. Once in the town of el Manzano, we had dinner at Terraluz. Fresh fajitas were a welcome change from all the empanadas. We drove down the Camino al Estero to the Camping El Manzano Outdoor site.
We were greeted by two workers and proceeded to exchange the necessary emergency contact information and payment. We continued down the road for some time and reached the camp grounds. There were only two other parties there, and we settled into a private corner with great views of the sky. Though temperatures were dropping into autumn ranges, we lucked out with no rain and made do with my limited camping supplies.
Day 25/ March 22, 2026
The next morning we started our trek towards Torrecillos taking the trail marked by the rock near the cement gutter. We were planning on a multipitch ascent though with it being my first time, plans changed rather quickly.
Tripi para Dos, marked as problem number 5 in the guide, had a really fun, direct line. Val took the lead and I followed him. The holds were all kinds of reliable funky pockets in the volcanic rock which made for a secure climb. However, doubts crept in at the first anchor station. It was my first time loading bolts simultaneously with another person. I had no way to double check Val’s setup above me, nor a way for him to confirm mine. Though listed as a 30m ascent we already used more than half of our 60m rope so the options for descent were uncertain for a moment. Additionally, my previous imaginations of anchor stations in multipitch routes assumed the presence of a ledge for the next belay. There was no ledge. Meaning, full body weight of two people on unknown bolts in a new area on knots I didn’t get to check and an unclear line of ascent above. Yeah, no. This was perhaps the control freak confirmation I never knew I needed. Val offered patient, confident assurance and eventually I was able to stop white knuckling on the rap rings. We rappelled down and regrouped.
The wind slowed a little, and Problem 4, named 5.120, presented an approachable challenge. Val again took the lead and climbed with ease. Just before he reached the anchor, I noticed a large black shape in the sky and shouted “CONDOR!!” I wish I could say I played it cool, but I did not. They’re magnificent!! Two circled above for the next hour or so. Though the feet felt harder and the upper section was a little more exposed, I was feeling more comfortable by the time I reached the anchor. We rappelled down and walked back to the car. We said goodbye to the lovely campground attendants and drove back to Santiago.
After a quick bag drop and shower at the AirBnb we walked over to the Bellavista neighborhood and had dinner at Galindos. Val had the pastel de choclo (Chilean version of a shepherds pie with cheesy creamed corn as a topping instead of potato) and I had Longanizas, a spicy pork sausage, with a side of picante mashed potatoes.
Tired from the climb, we walked home and played some more geoguesser before tucking in.
Day 26/March 23, 2026
Monday and Val’s last day of the trip. We opted for a spontaneous day wandering around and try new cafes and empanada spots. A few highlights include the Marcial Art Cafe in Bellavista with amazing espresso naranja drinks and an eclectic atmosphere.
Recipient of several awards, Na Matea made empanadas fresh to order which we took with us on our walk through the city.
We ended up in the plaza de armas square where a full Chinchinero show was happening. The “one-man band” concept has been said to derive from European organ grinders. Chileans interacting with such performers in coastal cities such as Valparaíso during the early 19th century, opted to put their own twist on the art. As shown in the video, Chinchineros play a drum with their hands while controlling attached cymbals with their heels. The additional dancing technique has been credited to Héctor Lizana Gutiérrez who added his own adaptations in the 1930s. This art form is especially important to a number of families including the Saavedra and Aravena who have been performing for generations!
Credits: 2012 The Chinchinero, a true Chilean tradition by Gabriel Ramos mayurutours.com, https://organillerosychinchineroslizana.cl/quienes-somos/
The Mezcla cafe was our next stop. It had so many surprise rooms and delicious drinks.
With more time to kill, we hopped in the Hyundai grand i10 and headed to the mountains. It was a long lovely drive up so many switchbacks. Crazy how quickly the surroundings change in such close proximity to Santiago!! Just 1 hour or so and we were in high mountains with snow! The Parva and Colorado resorts made for some great bird watching. I took the wheel on the way down and played around with the engine brake (under Val’s watchful supervision). Closer and closer to driving manual every day ;)
We ended the day with a climb at Ragni in Santiago with some support from the cutest pup. We then said a quick goodbye on the road and just like that Val was at the airport and I was on a bus back to Talca. All in all, quite the awesome week!!
Chau! Thank you for coming along! :)
I've read every word of your wonderful blog, drooled over all the pics. Thank you kindly for sharing this exciting chapter. You are amazing. Looking forward to the next one!