Week 18
- Aug 26
- 25 min read
Updated: Aug 27
Day 128 / July 3, 2026
TGIF! After a lovely evening out in Santiago on Thursday, I was certainly a little sleepy on Friday. There was a mechanic visiting the lab to perform an annual assessment on the autoclave. I waited with him until Cathe arrived and took my place at around 10am. At that point, I bolted upstairs to a small presentation room where Catha was doing a practice presentation of a paper about a cancer model in mice. She is taking a PhD entry assessment this coming fall which will include a paper presentation so all of these mini practices are intended to help her prepare.
After the presentation it was time to review the 72h antimicrobial plates where, consistent with previous findings, not much activity was noticed.
Then, at last, the time had come to sit the final assessment for Cellular Biology and Histology. I headed to the assessment rooms and only then realized how many students were taking the exam. Offered to first year Nursing students and Pharmacy and Chemistry students, there were about 150 people in total divided between two exam rooms. After everyone had settled at their desks, Dr. Charles came into the room to request we head outside for a big class photo. It took some adjusting and a fish-eye lens to fit everyone in the frame, but they figured it out nonetheless.
Within no time, we were back in the exam room receiving well wishes from Dr. Charles and then we were off! It took just under two hours to answer the 20 multiple choice questions, two short essay questions and two long essay questions. When I handed in my paper, I felt an instant rush of relief. Dr. Charles asked me how I thought it went, I tried to give him a confident smile and say “Pienso bien!”
To celebrate the end of the term, Catherine, Catha and I headed to Bar Estado. We were later joined by Mauri, Catherine’s partner, too. We watched the historic Argentina vs Cabo Verde game while sipping cocktails and splitting cheesy mechada fries.
I didn’t stay out for too long as I had to head home to pack. It took me an hour to lay out all the necessary things and stuff them into my allotted carry on. I was ready to go and tucking into bed by 10pm.
Day 129 / July 4, 2026
Happy 4th to all of my USA readers!!
I had a relatively early start today and boarded a bus towards Santiago leaving Talca at 7:00am. I snoozed for most of the journey but had to shed layers because the radiator next to my seat was working overtime. Once we arrived in Santiago, I walked the short distance from the station to the Centropuerto bus stop near San Alberto Hurtado and boarded a bus to the airport.
I arrived at the airport just before 10:45am and was through security by 11:00am. Hungry for breakfast, I paid a heinous amount for a pizza and cinnamon roll ($25) then sat by my gate and had a phone call with Adrianna. She is hoping to visit Chile this fall so we talked all things dates, plans, and completos. After saying our goodbyes so she could continue with her July 4th festivities, I spent some time curating two recap posts to catchup on the @chileandthecosmos Instagram page.
Though there was a slight delay in departure, after boarding it was an easy flight to Lima. I logged onto the PlayLatam network and watched Marty Supreme. Food service began halfway through the movie, so I was happily munching on a mechada cheese sandwich and fruit salad by the time Marty was fighting for a victory at the final tournament in Japan.
The two passengers next to me were also from the US and from hearing their conversation, it seemed they were students in the Boston area. Though my first thought was to introduce myself and share the common Boston connection, they seemed to be under the impression I was Chilean. Finding this hilarious (because my accent in spanish is especially bad and super gringa) I decided to keep quiet and watch my movies. There was more time left in the flight so I started the F1 movie with Brad Pitt and was instantly hooked. Though I was only 30 minutes into the film by the time we landed, the soundtrack and plot had me wishing there was more time to finish it.
Passport control was relatively quick, though there was some confusion when the officer asked where I was going, to which I replied “Huaraz” and he said, “You know that’s in Mexico not Peru right?”... maybe a sign that I need to work on my J vs H pronunciation. Nonetheless, I got through and was on a bus transfer to the Miraflores area by 6:00pm. I was dropped off outside the JW Marriott Lima then took a quick ten minute uber ride to my hostel, Viajero Hostel, in Barranco.
I was given a warm welcome at check in where they handed me keys to the room and a quick run down of the house rules. Excited to explore and feeling a bit peckish, I dropped my bag and headed out to the nearby La Feria Independiente.
Inside was a small market and stage that was alive with a vibrant band playing. People were dancing and bopping along while I snacked on a combo special from a Venezuelan food stall consisting of some tequeños and an empanada.
Feeling sufficiently stimulated, I walked to a nearby pharmacy to buy water purification tablets (which I would later discover were far too concentrated, one per 20L water) and altitude medication (acetazolamide often associated with brand name diamox). Much to my surprise, and disappointment, a number of men made weird noises at me as I walked along the sidewalk. First I heard a whistle and made eye contact with a man driving by in a car which I brushed off as being directed at someone else. Then, as I continued walking for two minutes between the pharmacy and grocery, three separate men on the sidewalk made eye contact and said various things under their breath with a strange expression on their faces. It was already dark outside, and though I was close to my hostel and in a safer neighborhood, the targeted advances made me feel quite uncomfortable so I decided to head straight back and stay inside after collecting my groceries. I read about the altitude meds, took one tablet, and was in bed by 10pm.
Day 130 / July 5, 2026
Wanting to see as much as I could in Lima with little time to do so, I headed out for a jog at 8:00am. It was cloudy but warm at around 70°F as I ventured up past Parque Kennedy. The streets had been closed for a road race and people were racing down the strip. Wanting to avoid the traffic, I dipped back down towards Plaza de Armas Barranco and was met by crowds of school children. It was quite unusual for a Sunday, but the kiddos seemed to be filming various school projects. A large group of 15 boys were lined up in matching baggy white-tees, flat caps, and fake chains filming to a Soulja Boy track. I wish I could tell you what it was for, but I have no clue. After six miles I was feeling significantly worked and ready for breakfast. I chowed down on my granola bars and an apple back at the hostel then had a quick shower.
Throughout my run and still post shower I was feeling foot tingles and noticed my urine was a bit cloudy, all signs pointing to kidney disease (especially scary as a close family friend had recently succumbed to similar symptoms while in Peru). I began frantically googling potential causes but quickly remembered acetazolamide was the likely culprit. And sure enough, as a carbonic anhydrase inhibitor and mild diuretic, these side effects were all to be expected. Relieved, I settled into my bunk and spent two hours working on emails and updating my blog.
At 12:30pm I tied my sneakers and hit the road in hopes of exploring the historic city center. I went to board the public transport from Estación Bulevar but was quickly turned around as cash was needed to purchase a transit pass. Fortunately there was a currency exchange just around the corner so I went and changed my Chilean Pesos to Peruvian Soles. I returned to the gate and was helped by a lovely attendant. In no time, I was on the platform and boarding the Regular C Green line to Estación Jirón de la Unión. The journey took just under 40 minutes and was a great way to see the city. When the time came, I hopped off the bus and walked towards Plaza Mayor de Lima.
There was no rhyme or reason to my route, I just went up and down the streets in the surrounding area and marveled at the architecture. Google Gemini gave a great summary to explain the various Spanish, Baroque, Neoclassical, and French influences (drawing from sources including Cambridge University, Lima Bici Tours, and KLM Royal Dutch Airlines).
Spanish Renaissance & Mudéjar (Moorish): Early colonial layouts featured Andalusian-inspired interior courtyards, heavy use of cedar and mahogany woodwork, and ornamental tilework imported from Seville (seen vividly in the Palacio Arzobispal).
Baroque: Devastating earthquakes—most notably in 1687 and 1746—leveled original 16th-century structures. The rebuilding phases infused heavy Baroque detailing into the stone facades and vaulted ceilings of the Lima Cathedral.
Neoclassical: As the 18th and 19th centuries progressed, structural repairs shifted aesthetic preferences toward cleaner, symmetrical Neoclassical lines on cathedrals and civic structures.
French Neo-Baroque & Neo-Colonial (20th Century): Much of the current perimeter, including the Municipal Palace of Lima and the Government Palace, dates from mid-20th-century redesigns (completed around 1938–1944). These updates incorporated French Renaissance interior staircases and grand neo-colonial facades featuring Lima’s iconic carved wooden balconies
My wandering took me to the house of Peruvian Literature where I learned a bit about the first printing press, a machine brought to Peru by Julio Cesar Mariategui from Italy in 1925. It was use to print a number of key documents which later influenced Peruvian literature including “Amauta” a popular magazine, and “7 ensayos” or Seven Interpretive Essays on Peruvian Reality by José Carlos Mariátegui in 1928. The Seven essays included: Esquema de la evolución económica (Outline of Economic Evolution); El problema del indio (The Problem of the Indian); El problema de la tierra (The Problem of Land); El proceso de la instrucción pública (The Process of Public Education); El factor religioso (The Religious Factor); Regionalismo y centralismo (Regionalism and Centralism); El proceso de la literatura (The Process of Literature).
All the wandering worked up quite an appetite so I started looking for lunch spots. I heard live music and saw a small line building outside a sweet looking building with a blue door and I decided to join the queue.
After just ten minutes, I was seated at a table for one and browsing the ceviche options. El Gran Bitute had a wide selection, but I opted for the simple pescado ceviche with a glass of lemonade. I munched on the delicious crunchy corn and sweet, sweet potato while watching the waiters rush back and forth past the door. I paid my bill and headed back towards my hostel conscious of nighttime creeping in.
On the way home I stopped for dessert at St Roos and saw a chocolatey slice of banana cake with my name on it.
Full, tired, and anticipating early travel the next day, I headed to bed at 7:00pm.
Day 131 / July 6, 2026
I woke up and checked out of the hostel by 7:00am to catch my 11:00am flight. Excited to use public transit once again, I made my way over to the stop and was quickly humbled.
The Monday morning commute had already congested the line and bus after bus that came by was full. Crowds of people began to accumulate on the platform as more and more locals arrived trying to get on the bus. I watched as frantic commuters tried to smush into any gap they could. An hour later, just as I was losing hope I managed to squeeze on. I rode the bus to the end of the line then ordered an uber to take me the rest of the way to the airport.
The driver, Moreno, picked me up on the roundabout just opposite Estacion Castilla and had a shocked expression on his face when I opened the door. He explained this part of town was especially dangerous and he was very kind to offer several warnings not to come this way again. We continued chatting and he told me about his work, (in the department of education for the Peruvian government), his favorite places in Lima, and his concerns for an upcoming vote which will determine if police officers who use lethal force will be tried by a jury of their peers (commenting on the corruption already within the Peruvian police force). We arrived at the airport a short 15 minutes later and Moreno shared a cheery goodbye as well as offered his transport card for any future Lima commutes needed.
Check in and security was a breeze for the flight to Huaraz. In no time I was at the gate, boarded and one my way. We were in the air for just 45 minutes, meaning I didn’t have enough time to finish the F1 movie, though I tried. The view from my window seat were stunning! I quickly realized the Cordillera Blanca mountains were HUGE. Snow capped, jagged, and somehow still inviting.
The plane touched down in the Huaraz airport with ease and upon stepping out of the plane, I was met with the jaw-dropping, insanely stunning view of Huascarán. Wow.
Mountains aside, there was one thing on my mind… VAL!!! Luckily it was a small airport and maybe 20 steps from the foot of the plane to the parking lot. I quickly shuffled over with my things and kept my eyes out for the uber car bringing him. And just like that, a small sedan pulled up to the curb and a tan, smiley Val stepped out. He had a big bouquet of fresh, bright flowers with him and we had a big hug before figuring out how to get back to the city.
In no time we were in another uber heading towards the Big Mountain Hostel where Val had already checked in. The roads were teeming with life throughout the journey. Dogs running all around, women in traditional clothing carrying heavy loads in bright, colorful bags, and cars zooming in every direction. Once back at the hostel we set up the flowers using spare water bottles in the room, took a second to regroup, then headed out for lunch.
Val was already familiar with the area and whisked us through random alleyways pointing out coffee shops, various stores, and viewpoints. By 3:30PM we were sat in Charlie’s Pizza browsing the menu. Per Val’s recommendation, we split a pitcher of frozen lemonade, shared a tomato burrata salad and small pizza, then ordered our own pastas. We played chess and nibbled on the various delicious plates while Portugal and Spain played in the background.
A walk was certainly needed after all the food so we headed out and continued up to Mountain Protectors, a cafe with a wonderful view and special history. We had settled into the corner with a cup of coca tea and were flipping through a photo journal of the Cordillera Blanca when a man approached us.
He introduced himself as Víctor Rimac and we very quickly realized he was ‘the’ guy. Various memorabilia and articles lining the walls displayed his past expeditions. As a mountain guide from Huaraz with an extensive log of climbs, Víctor has cemented himself in the global climbing scene. He gave us a warm welcome and offered a tour, to which (of course) we said yes. He took us first to the entrance staircase which had a timeline showing the history of mountaineering in Huaraz. Then we walked around the rest of the space while Víctor explained the intention behind the meeting rooms and the funding goals of the mountain protectors organization. It was an awesome experience and I am so glad we had the chance to speak with him!
We ended up at Gelatooz where we split a double scoop of chocolate cherry and pie de limon. Val and I sat in the Plazuela de Soledad to finish our scoops and to people watch. Kids were biking down the stairs, kicking balls, playing tag, but the real star was a tiny tiny puppy! It was SO small and somehow managing to dodge the kids, balls, and bikes whizzing by.
Eager to catch another World Cup game, we headed to Duko’s and watched in despair as Belgium practically wiped the floor with the USA team. The golden Peruvian Dorada beer helped to ease the loss.
It was a busy day and we were starting to get tired. Before heading to bed we split a half chicken from the Polleria on Avenida Mariscal Toribio de Luzuriaga. On the way home we stopped at a small market for snacks and an Inca Kola (Val said I MUST try it; crazy yellow color and even stranger bubblegum flavor but not bad!). It was the final hit we needed and it put us straight into a food coma slumber.
Day 132 / July 7, 2026
We aimed for an earlier start today and were seated at the California Cafe for a big breakfast right at 8:30am. Val had been coming here for big comfort meals before long hikes and had developed a fond connection with the atmosphere and the climber clientele it attracted. I had a yogurt, scrambled eggs, homefries, and a fruit crepe while Val had scrambled eggs and ham.
We chowed down our breakfast then headed to a bakery to buy bread for our long hike. Huaraz sits at an elevation of 3,052m (10,000ft) and the mountains we were hoping to check out later in the trip are even higher. That’s to say, while Val had already acclimatized, I had some catching up to do. Our day one agenda consisted of a hike up to Laguna Churup at 4,450m (14,600ft). After purchasing some bread we ordered an uber up to the trailhead. We put on some sunscreen, tagged the well-loved Quilcayhuanca sign with a Run The Whites sticker, then hit the trail by 10:15am.
We arrived at the Park Control building at 11:00am, signed into the park, and purchased a park pass to use for the days to come. Val kindly lent me his trekking poles and boy do they help! We cruised along catching up on all the things.
Eventually we reached the lake and settled in for a quick lunch with a view right around 12:30pm. It was interesting to watch as two sly pups went around begging for food and Val soon realized they were the same dogs that had approached him the week prior. Very cool mountain pups to be living up so high!
We started the descent with departure times in mind. There was no service at the base and Val was mindful of the hourly departure of shuttles. We made it down right around 2pm and I got to chatting with the bus driver to see what our options were. He said we were welcome to join so Val and I loaded into the front seat for the journey down.
We waited a few minutes for the rest of the passengers to take their seats and then we were off. As we were packed quite cozily in the front row, I figured it only right to start some conversation and our driver, Gabriel, was very happy to entertain it. He shared all about his childhood and being raised in a house along the road to Laguna Churup. His first language was Quechua and his family has since remained in the area and continue to practice traditional methods of farming and life. He has three kids with his wife Isabella and now they have five grandkids too. Their middle child, Eiber, is 38 and a high mountain guide (Alpemayo, Huascaran etc.) It was really special and sobering to hear his concern as a parent for such a risky occupation. This somber tone took a quick turn when he lit up and shared it was Isabella’s birthday today. After this trip back down to Huaraz with us tourists, he was going to head home for a massive family BBQ. Curious about where we were from, I shared the USA to which Gabriel mentioned they had previously hosted Nathan from Wisconsin for two years before the pandemic. It was an awesome chat and a lovely journey down. Of course I need to plug the company here, feel free to email info@kananhuaraz.com for any transport needs you may have!
Val and I headed home for a quick rest and a shower. Then at 7:00pm we headed out to meet Luca and Jacob at Huaraz’s finest, Bonus Tracks. Val had met Luca just a few weeks prior when he was out climbing Petit Grepon in Colorado. During their initial conversation they had made the connection that both of them were heading to Huaraz and had kept in touch since. Luca has traveled to Huaraz for the past three seasons and has understandably developed a strong attachment to the Cordillera Blanca. As an english teacher and literature connoisseur, Luca has an incredible knack for writing. To read more about his Peruvian adventures, specifically his ascent of Jirishanca Chico from 2025, go here. Val had already met up with Luca and his visiting friend Jacob, the week prior though they still had lots to catch up on. We heard all about their Alpemayo adventure, and Luca and Jacob agreed they had learned a lot. The conversation shifted from all things jobs, life, hobbies, to dreaming of climbing plans. We eventually got sipping on some coca and pisco sours, then Val and I split wings and tequenos. Bonus Tracks was a hit! Needing an early start the next day, we said our good byes and wished them well. Jacob was heading back home to Colorado in a few days, but Luca was going to be around and he and Val agreed to meet and plan some excursions in the near future.
Day 133 / July 8, 2026
We woke up early the next morning, around 6:30am, to pack for our trek up to Refugio Ischinca. By 7:30am, we had checked our additional luggage into the hostel bag room and were en route for a breakfast at Canttu. Much to our surprise, the place was packed!! We were just about to head elsewhere when two men ushered us over to their table. They introduced themselves as Simon and Gerald. They had been climbing partners for over 20 years following a friendship that developed when Simon did an exchange from the UK to Germany during his undergrad. It was their first time in Peru and they had only just arrived to Huaraz that morning. They shared about their plans to check out Hatun Machay and we listened eagerly for any wisdom nuggets from such an experienced duo. Gerald has even written a few guide books, namely Rotgelbes Felsenland to develop the East German climbing scene around Saxony-Anhalt and western Saxony. Val and I inhaled pancakes while Simon joked about his only trip to the USA which took him through the swamps of Louisiana. They were very kind to give us a seat at their table and it was a wonderful start to what would be a pretty big day.
We had settled up the check, said our goodbyes and were on our way to a bakery by 8:30am. Panaderia Salazar had just the fix we needed and we stocked up on some pan de leche (milk bread) and rosca pan de piso (a ring which we would later find was a dry crumb intended for dipping into tea etc.). Val ordered us an uber up to the refugio Ischinca trailhead in the small town of Pashpa around an hour north of Huaraz.
A red Hyundai Elantra Sport matching the order description pulled up to the curb. We confirmed the trip details then piled in with our bags. Our driver introduced himself as John, and we immediately got to chatting. He was from the town of Huaraz and grew up speaking just spanish so didn’t have the same Quechua connections as other locals we had previously interacted with. He had only done this drive up to Pashpa on two other occasions so was curious about our plans for the trip. We passed so many beautiful farms along the way and about halfway through the drive, swung up onto a dirt road. The dirt road very quickly transitioned into treacherous rocky and uneven terrain. We could feel every bump and grew increasingly concerned for the welfare of the car and the demands of a return down the hill. With the currency exchange, Val and I had paid just over $5 USD each, a cost we both felt was far below what was fair. We asked John if he was okay to continue and he assured us it was fine. He pointed out the strawberry fields and we asked about the snow conditions this year, and before long we had arrived.
Val and I took a quick moment to regroup, wave goodbye to John, and then start on our way. The trail from Pashpa to Refugio Ischinca was just over 8 miles long, with 2,500ft of gain from and estimated to take 4-5 hours. Though the Refugio was full service with toilets, food, and bunk beds, Val and I still had heavy packs with all the potential gear needed to hike up ice and snow.
Right at the start of the hike we were passed by a crew of donkeys carrying heavy loads up to the refugio which had us second guessing.
Nonetheless, we kept on track and stopped for a quick lunch of bread at 12:30pm next to the bluey green stream running through the valley.
The trail was gorgeous! And very fortunately covered in trees. The valley was so inviting and it felt as though we were being swallowed up as we kept going further. Everything was so bright, so alive, and so fresh.
We passed cows, sheep, and a handful of donkey trains passed us in both directions. With the acclimatizing still ongoing, and backs tired from heavy packs, we spent most of the walk up in silence taking in the views. By 2:00pm we had pulled out of the trees and saw what looked to be the base of the refugio.
By 3:00pm we were finally there and signing in. We left our boots in the entry mud room area, were given a welcome cup of coca tea, and were then shown up to our bunks in the Urus room. We were alone in a room with 16 bunks and were excited for some quiet time.
Planning for an early start the next day, we started prepping our packs when Val suggested we practice performing a crevasse rescue. With absolutely zero experience to draw from, I watched as he set up his snow picket anchor and ran a z pulley with prusik backups. Just as I was getting through my third practice, there was a knock on the door and one of the workers entered with another guest. She introduced herself as Daniella and we immediately hustled to clean up the rigging that was blocking the entrance. While Daniella settled in, we lay down for a nap tired from the early start and long journey. I woke up by 6:00pm and made my way outside for a brief look at the sunset. I then headed into the common room where some others who were staying outside in tents had come in to hang out by the fire and play board games. I got chatting to someone by the fire, who introduced himself as Paul. He was a weathered climber from Columbia. I asked about his trip, whether or not he was guided, to which he joked “I am not paying for that! You can just go up by yourself and copy what they do for free.” He was in one piece, so maybe that approach does work for some.
Not too long after, Val came down to join and we asked to join the table Daniella was sitting at with her book. Dinner service started at 7:00pm and we were all SO excited to eat. We each had a big glass of water then we were served soup to start, and a chicken, rice and mashed potatoes main with a chocolate pudding for dessert.
As we chowed down on the much needed carbs, we got to chatting with Daniella and heard all about her adventures in Peru. She is half Peruvian, and half American, grew up in Lima, but is now residing in Washington state working as an English teacher. Before making her way up to the refugio, she ran a 50k race (with over 2500m gain) near laguna Churup associated with the Merrell Skyrace series. Then she had planned to spend a few more days hiking with a friend but they were sick so she opted to do the refugio route and tick off some more terrain by herself (badass!). We listened in half shock half laughter as she told us about her funky encounter with some cow farmers on the way up. It turns out July marks the end of the annual harvest and is right in the middle of the dry season in Peru. As a result, farmers often use the time to round up cattle in the high mountains and perform any branding as needed. ‘La Herranza’ as its called, can often be a bit frantic and, understandably, it seems the farmers were warning Daniella to stay on trails away from big herds of cows at that time. It was a lovely dinner with great company and gave us the fill we needed before we headed to bed. The workers came around to ask how everything was and what time we were planning on leaving the next day. Val and I shared we were hoping to head to Ischinca and would leave at 2:30am. They wished us luck and kindly offered to have our allotted breakfast out waiting for us before then.
Everything about the refugio was awesome!!! Hence I figured it was worth mentioning a bit about the history. Credits to Google Gemini for another summary here: Operation Mato Grosso (OMG) is an international youth volunteer movement deeply rooted in Catholic social teaching and founded in Italy in 1967 by the Salesian priest Father Ugo de Censi. What began as a spontaneous expedition of Italian youth traveling to South America to build schools and medical clinics has evolved into a highly organized, lifelong lifeline for impoverished communities in Peru, Brazil, Ecuador, and Bolivia. This enduring connection relies heavily on a massive fundraising network across Italy, where thousands of young volunteers gather in local groups to perform free manual labor—such as farming, scrap metal collection, and painting—to generate income. All funds raised by these Italian youth groups are sent directly to South America to sustain more than 100 ongoing missions, including the high-altitude Red de Refugios Andinos network. In addition to this financial engine, hundreds of Italian volunteers travel to Peru annually to dedicate months or years of their lives to managing the refuges for free, ensuring that every penny spent by trekkers at Refugio Ishinca is funneled directly back into local schools, hospitals, and carpentry workshops.
Therefore, anytime I use the general term “workers” I am referring to the Italian volunteers and local Peruvian/Huaracino staff that contribute to the refugio’s operation and maintenance.
Val and I finished packing our bags, brushed our teeth, set alarms for 2:00am, then tucked into bed by 9:00pm.
Day 134 / July 9, 2026
It was an early early start but we whipped into action following the sounds of our alarms at 2:00am. We used our headlamps to navigate the dark refugio and headed downstairs where breakfast was out waiting for us. We each ate a roll of bread with butter and jam then had some yogurt too. We used the fresh hot thermos water to fill our water bottles then headed out into the starry early morning.
The goal for today was to go 3 miles from the refugio at 14,300ft up to the Longoni Bivouac at 16,400ft then another 2 miles to the Ischinca glacier peak at 17,900ft. Overall a big day totalling 10 miles roundtrip and 3,600ft gained with heavy packs.
Taking it little by little, I just focused on what was happening in the moment and found myself enjoying the morning darkness and silence. I heard the rush of a water in the riverbed, our footsteps crunching in dewy morning grass, and the whooshing of distant winds as we crossed the flat valley base towards the start of the trail. A result of the morning darkness, some GPS confusion, and still orienting ourself in a new place meant we accidentally started off in the wrong direction. It was around 3:30am and we noticed that headlights which had started behind us were suddenly way higher up in the peak above. We both took out our phones to check the AllTrails map when I realized then that Val had been guiding us without the map downloaded. He had a general map of the area, but hadn’t saved the specific route. Meanwhile I had been blindly following even though I had the route saved on my phone. He started apologizing and beating himself up for the mistake but it was so clear that we were both to blame. That was a huge learning moment and great reminder to double check everything when you’re going on some kind of adventure and to always take an active part in the navigation. We turned back and retraced our steps until we joined with the trail up to Ishinca. All in all our sidequest was a 2 mile detour that cut 1.5 hours into the journey.
We had just arrived to the start of the zig zag switchbacks up to the Longoni Bivouac when my headlamp died. It was only 4:00am then and we had a ways to go before sun would be up. It was another slight blow to the confidence, but I got my phone out, flashlight on and we started making our way up. I was still acclimatizing at that point and also conscious to conserve energy for the lengthy journey so was moving at a relatively slow pace around 2mph. It still felt like hard work so I was definitely building up a sweat but at that pace Val was shivering and starting to feel cold. We kept chugging along and passed a French group with a guide as we made the final approach to Longoni Bivouac. There was a fork in the road so we looked at the map and started on the path which veered right up a steeper, scrambly section. A few minutes later the French group passed under us and took the left route. We stopped, checked our sources again, and continued on unsure of why they went that way. It was a huge relief to see the sun come up at 6:00am but it also started a clock because Val was conscious that we should be off the glacier before peak heat and sun in the middle of the day.
At 6:15am we were looking out at the sheer, snow-free face of Ranrapalca above Laguna Ischinca. Just 15 minutes later we were up sitting in front of the Refugio Longoni. Psyched for a break and even more thrilled to have made it this far, we settled down for a quick snack and change of layers.
The psych turned quickly into confusion when we looked up and saw the French crew we had passed further along almost at the foot of the glacier. We opened the map again and zoomed out to realize the Longoni Bivouac was not a necessary stop and instead a bit of a detour. Another navigation error.
Even though we had plenty of time to do the remaining 2 miles and 1,500ft to the summit, we were tired from the early start, deflated from the mistakes, and cold. We chatted about options and ultimately opted to head back down to the refugio and plan for a big day the next day. We headed down with a pep in our step for other big things to come.
Just as we were doing the final zig zags to the refugio, we bumped into Daniella who was on her way up. We wished her good luck, warned her about the forks in the trail, and continued down. We were back sleeping in our bunks by 8:45am.
At some point we woke up, made some instant ramen for lunch, and decided to go outside to wander. There was some topo for various bouldering routes in the surrounding area and Val was curious to check it out. We sat on a rock by the river and just talked for a while. It was lovely.
Eventually, the conversation shifted to planning for the next day. We only had one night left in the refugio which meant no matter what, we had to do the 8 mile descent to Paspha tomorrow. And once back in Pashpha, there was no service to call for a car so we had to prearrange a journey back to Huaraz with help from the refugio team meaning we would need a fixed time to work backwards from. Keeping daylight hours in mind, we ultimately decided we should arrange for a pickup in Pashpa no later than 5:00pm. Getting to Pashpa by 5:00pm meant we had to be leaving the Refugio Ischinca by no later than 2:00pm (3 hours to do 8 miles down hill).
Based on our experience from today, we were looking for an objective with less approach time and more glacier/technical aspect to it. The choice seemed obvious, Urus Este. Though there was not much glacier on top, the trailhead was right next to the refugio and the route went straight up. It was around 2 miles each way and 3000ft of gain. We walked over to the trailhead that afternoon to make sure we knew exactly where we were going. A fluffy gray viscacha was snacking right by the start, something that felt like a good sign to me. Even though the route was shorter, we still agreed to be leaving by 3:00am to make sure we had enough time.
Sweet. We have a plan.
We went back inside and stayed in the common room playing chess and chatting together until it was time for dinner. Right at 7:00pm we received a starter of guac and some cheesy tequenos and a main of ají de gallina (chicken chili) with rice. We ate quickly, thanked the staff for dinner and asked for an early breakfast the next day. Upstairs, we packed our bags, set our alarms, and headed to bed.
Chau for now! :)
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